Well, Steve.
You continually surprise me. I had been advocating getting rid of that
3.54, and you seemed set on the T-5. I wonder know if you'll finish the
job, and get those wide ratio gears. I'd let you drive my car to see
the difference, if you care to.
I do not know where you are getting your technical advice, but most of
it is not correct. The LAT low rise was dropped as the LAT option after
Vic Edelbrock demonstrated, during a race meet quick change, how much
better his F4B performed with the same car. That's what I am running,
and it is very different than the lo-rise. It is rated from 2500-6000
rpm, and is very similar to the new Performer RPM. Although it is very
smooth at idle and no flat spots anywhere in the range. The Performer
RPM is nearly identical in height and slope, but the materials are more
modern and the flow paths are a bit straighter. Of course it isn't
LAT. I've had all three of these manifolds, and I'll stick with the
F4B, or if I can't find one, the Performer RPM.
If you want to get to 70 or 80 quicker you need that Mk II gear set,
first.
I do have the original LAT valve covers, that come with the rear fins
ground off , and have no problems in R&R in the car of the valve covers,
or the plugs, however the rear valve cover bolts are difficult to get at
even with the stock covers. You need the right wrenches, consisting of
1/4 inch sockets, a flex handle ratchet, and a wobble extension (not a
universal joint). The spark plugs need similar wobble extension, but in
the 1/2 inch size. The only problem plug is the #8, which must be
removed from the foot well through the rubber plug provided for that
purpose. Again, the correct wrenches are a great help, and a flex
handle is great. Maybe an internal socket magnet (Sears) to hold the
last valve cover bolts on, regardless of valve cover.
These tools can be expensively purchased from Snap-On, the wobble
extensions can also be bought cheaply at Pep Boys. The flex handle
wrenches are available at Harbor Freight, in Oxnard, and I believe they
have wobble extensions as well.
Bottom line, in order of performance improvement.
1) Get the right tools.
2) Get the wide ratio Mk II ratios available from any Toploader shop,
preferably with the new 8 hole case and your tail stock and output
shaft.
3) Get the F4B, or the Performer RPM 289, with a Holley 465 or 600 CFM
carb, or the Edlebrock 500 or 600 CFM, depending on originality desires.
4) Make absolutely sure you have had the screw in studs installed in the
head, along with the high lift cam and the stiffer springs, or your
looking for a disaster.
5) If you do have a "Genuine" HiPo bottom, you better have the Hipo
flywheel, internal timing chain crank weight, and the external HiPo
damper that goes with for balance.
--
Steve Laifman < Find out what is most >
B9472289 < important in your life >
< and don't let it get away!>
http://www.TigersUnited.com/gallery/SteveLaifman.asp
_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
_/ _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/_/_/
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/
_/_/_/_/_/__/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
_/
_/_/_/
|