Tom,
Simple rules.
Larger than stock bore m/c, MORE pedal effort, LESS pedal travel for
same braking.
Smaller than stock bore m/c, LESS pedal effort, MORE pedal travel for
same braking.
Don't run out of pedal travel by hitting floorboard.
A servo of the Lockheed type is not a big mounting hassle, as they can
be bolted directly to the right firewall (LHD) without constructing
brackets, as rumored.. You need about 2.6-3.0 boost ratio. They make
them in all sorts of variations, so watch out. There was a remote type
US servo (Midland-Ross) made for the early Thunderbirds that is
available, Owners report good luck with those units. You can call Lucas
and get references to equivalent Lockheed units (they do NOT make the
lockheed unit, but refer), and maybe an 800 number for Lockheed to get
the correct model. Do NOT buy ANYTHING, EVER, from Victoria British.
Very few satisfied customers.
Adapters may be available, but if you buy "bubble flared" tubing from
Sunbeam Specialties, bend to fit, and use a good flaring tool to make a
new "Double" flare at the M/C, you won't need adapters.
EXCEPTION TO ABOVE. If the threads are metric, you may have to get a
metric threaded attach fitting. I am NOT sure if the tubing sizes and
angles are different for metric standard hydraulic lines.
Check the links on http://www.TigerUnited.com for hydraulic rebuilder
for sleeving, rebuilding, and possibly re-built Girling, Midland or
Lockheed units with a core charge if you don't have one. If you don't
like Girling.
Lot's of strapping young men, with strong right legs, find no need for
servo assist. I am not one of them, and do think the pedal travel, with
the servo, is correct for proper "heel and toeing" in downshifts. This
is often overlooked on examining only pedal effort.
Good luck.
--
Steve Laifman < Find out what is most >
B9472289 < important in your life >
< and don't let it get away!>
http://www.TigersUnited.com/gallery/SteveLaifman.asp
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