Steve, if you are going to get your car to perform better, then get it
dyno tuned. Unless you are a real whiz with tuning, this will be the
best money spent.
I had mine dynoed, and it went from 196 hp to 237 hp at the rear
wheels, for $150. 21% increase.
Included jets, distr. setting, and re gapping the plugs. I forgot to
tell the guy that the left rear plug is accessible through the firewall,
and he said after that the plug are a Little tight to change on that car.
Pretty cheap Real hp, with torque increase to match.
Larry
SJC Worldwide wrote:
>
> Thanks to the advice from the list, my warm Tiger hard starting problem
> is solved. Sure enough, I removed the brake booster and plugged the
> vacuum line to it. Now the Tiger starts instantly hot or cold. The
> booster, which was locking up the brakes, is "slosh city"....full of
> brake fluid you hear sloshing around when you shake it. The braking is
> actually pretty good with the booster bypassed (and the small CAT brake
> master cylinder installed), but you do have to pay more attention when
> coming to a stop as you have to keep quite a bit more pressure on the
> pedal to come to a complete halt. I might end up re-doing the booster
> later on. Plugging the vacuum leak also cured my steady cruising speed
> "stumble" too.
>
> Here's another question:
>
> I finally got my electric choke on my new Holley carb. working
> semi-properly. When starting cold, if functions as it should. I depress
> the pedal half way, you hear the choke plate clicking "closed", turn the
> key and it starts and, after a shot of gas or two, it idles at around
> 1300 RPM and off I go without having to do a long warm up, just like a
> real car! However, as the car warms up, to get the idle to get to its
> normal warm idle RPM (I have it set around 750 RPM), you have to really
> "goose" the throttle pedal. Once you do this enough to get the idle to
> drop, it stays where its supposed to be. My understanding is that the
> choke should gradually and automatically bring down the idle as the
> choke spring heats up and lower the fast idle speed.
>
> When I was messing about with the choke previously (before I realized it
> wasn't getting its required 12 volts), I think I might have messed up
> the alignment of the fast idle mechanism by pushing toward closed (or
> open??) the air horn choke plate and holding the red plastic choke "cam"
> (I hope I'm using the right terms) in place. I think I heard a couple of
> "clicks" while doing this, not something breaking but like I might have
> forced the cam a couple of "clicks" off its preferred position. Does
> this make sense? Looking at the side of the carb, I can't figure out
> exactly how that mechanism works and how I can adjust it. Help, as
> usual, will be appreciated.
>
> P.S.......As I'm getting the final (for now) bugs out of the Tiger and
> making it my reliable daily driver, I'm coming to the feeling that my
> drivetrain, as it sits now, has some more zoom in it that I may be able
> to release by getting at the timing and tuning, so I'll be looking at
> that next. However, that idea on the list a couple of days ago of using
> 15" wheels on the back and keeping the stock 13" wheels on the front so
> the car is always driving down hill sounds mighty appealing!!! I might
> try that as I do notice that the car does feel much faster driving down
> mountain roads than it does on the earlier trip up.
>
> Regards,
> Steve Sage
> 1967 MK1A
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