Lacking a Sunbeam specialist you could try a 4 wheel drive place that
specializes in old Jeeps.
Erich
----- Original Message -----
From: <VegasLegal@aol.com>
To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2003 4:00 PM
Subject: Rear hub/axle removal
> Since I've found this list,I have very much enjoyed reading all the trials
and tribulations. Now for one of mine.
>
> I've got a couple of spinning lug bolts on the back. A temporary fix with
JB Weld seems to be holding up, but getting some new ones in would give me
much better peace of mind.
>
> In trying it myself (which is my preferred method), the slide hammer was
to no avail. The pin puller didn't work. And kicking the h' out of the
thing just hurt my foot. Therefore, I'm going to be having a shop do it.
>
> What should I look for in a shop? (I.e., who would be most familiar with
the dated Dana 44)
>
> What should I expect this to cost?
>
> Am I an idiot and missing an easy way to do this?
>
> Is there anything else I should have done once they invade the car to this
degree.
>
> Next question. In installing Rick's side moldings, does the free floating
spreader pin stays with the clips, right?
>
> P.S. to the stalling problems I've been reading about. The info regarding
the fuel line corruption should be shouted to the hills. When I took my car
out of fifteen years of storage, the same type of problem arose after I had
boiled the tanks and blown out the lines. After rebuilding the carb,
replacing the carb, putting in a composite carb spacer from Rick, changing,
cleaning or checking functionally every electrical connection and part in
the car, driving Curt crazy, insulating the fuel line (suspected vapor lock)
and on the eve of buying a new distributor, I went back and reamed (instead
of blowing out) the fuel lines. Low and behold, the problem was some crud
that would pack and cause the stall, then float back as the car cooled.
This should be a first look not a last look.
>
> Thanks all for being there.
>
> Bob Nersesian
>
> B382000975
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