Tom,
Sorry I can't be of more help, but I can at least offer this
bit. I use a fuse block off of a 240Z and the fuses that are listed for
it have no problem with the load. I used most of the stock names
circuits labeled on the box and just wired things to that (rather
hastily). I just used the A/C fuse slot for my cooling fan.
Good luck! I hope to re-do mine when I get a few spare weeks to
redo most of my rats nest of under-dash wiring!!!
Scott
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-tigers@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-tigers@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tom Witt
Sent: Monday, July 05, 2004 2:35 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Wiring (fuse block replacement)
I would guess that most of the Tiger World is at SUNI, but perhaps there
is still a hope of a reply??? If I get get no, or few replies I'll
re-post next week (sorry).
I am replacing my stock MK 1Tiger, 2-fuse block with a covered 14-fuse
piece (Nissan 280-Z). I am also relocating the fuse block to the upper,
driver side, kick panel area. I would like to maximize circuit isolation
without getting too carried away. As I look over the Tiger wiring
diagram I see a LOT of the current runs through the ignition switch.
Questions:
I can see the ignition switch handling the load of the Ignition
(coil), Fuel Pump, and Instruments, but should it be a cold, rainy day
and the wipers and heater motor get into the draw is the switch being
overloaded? By the way, how much current does heating the bi-metal for
the turn signal flasher draw (also on the ignition switch), is it high?
Would I be getting too carried away just having the ignition switch
activate a relay that would then distribute current to all these
"switched" items? If so, what type of relay? Would a Ford starter relay
handle the continuous "ON" situation?
As I see it these items NEED to be on the ignition switch: Ignition
(coil), Fuel Pump, Tach, Instruments.
As I see it these items SHOULD (also) be on the ignition switch
(primarily for the convienence of not wearing down the battery
accidentally) : Turn Signal, Wiper, Heater (motor), Radio, Electric
Pusher Fan (even if I opt to have this manually switched it would be
nice to have the current run through a relay wired into the ignition
switch so that when the car is turned off, so is the fan)
As I see it these items CAN (or should) be unswitched (hot): Headlights
Hi/Lo (they seem to be wired one or the other so I would think 1 fuse
would suffice), Parking (they call side/tail/plate), Map, Instruments,
Brake, Lighter (12 -V accessory plug, I don't smoke), Horn
Note, that I have opted to put the brake lights on the unswitched side
of the curcuit. Perhaps a hung switch (and dead battery) will have me
change my mind later, but I like the idea of brake lights while coasting
(engine off).
Again, I have 14 fuse points. Does this scenario sound acceptable? 1.
Ignition 2. Fuel pump 3. Tach, Instruments 4. Turn Signals 5. Wiper 6.
Heater 7. Radio 8. Pusher Fan 9. Headlights (Hi/Lo) 10. Brake 11.
Parking (side/tail/plate/map/instruments) 12. Horn, Lighter (12-V
accessory plug) I put these together considering their "momentary" use.
13. Future considerations 14. Future considerations
Finally, would anyone have recommended amp ratings for each item listed
above.
Thanks to anyone who might confirm or enhance my plan described above,
Tom Witt B9470101
P.S. I have not driven my car (4+ years). The wiring diagrams shows
"accessory," but my ignition switch has three positions: Off, On and
Start. Is the #4 Accessory connection on the ignition switch just a
secondary power pick-up point in the On position? TW
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