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Re: [Tigers] Body prep and Bondo repair?

To: <un-cole-a@juno.com>, <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Body prep and Bondo repair?
From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2007 08:48:09 -0600
The choice will partially come down to what's available in your
neighborhood (and how far you're prepared to transport the bodyshell).
Another concern would be that if you want to go the dip&strip route and
you have the original VIN plate attached with the original rivets, then
you have to talk with the operator of the tank to determine if it's
possible to protect the vin plate and its rivets from the caustic
solution (which will dissolve the aluminum vin plate).

If you go with the dip operation, then any bondo that exists will be
removed. You get back all the steel and lead on the bodyshell and that's
it... No plastic, rubber, or aluminum parts. Media blasting gives the
operator a lot of control over how much removal is done and where, but
it would typically abrade anything soft like Bondo such that you'll need
at least a skim coat or a couple of passes of high-build primer to level
it back up again.

The advantage of old Bondo is that any shrinkage that might occur as
part of the aging process, will be all done with, but it could still
crack and then leave you with a big blemish in the paint that's
impossible to fix. If there is a hole (i.e. rust) that someone spooged
shut with Bondo then that ought to be cut out and replaced with
sheetmetal. The incremental cost of getting one or two patches put in,
once the entire car is disassembled and stripped, is pretty small
compared to the cost of the bodywork and paint as a whole.

If you are getting the bodywork done and are doing anything other than a
stock or 100% returnable-to-stock restoration, you should consider
rolling inside the fender lips before the car is painted.

Theo
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