The MkII does have an ammeter. It is on the left side and says Lucas and 50
+ and 50 -.
Most later ammeters go through a shunt and part of the current goes through
the shunt and the rest (a small amount) goes through the ammeter. In other
words when 50 amps is coming from the alternator, 5 might be going through
the ammeter and 45 through the shunt but the marks on the ammeter will say
50. I don't know it the MKII is straight through or shunt type because I
have never had it apart. It would have to be relatively large wires and
connections to be straight through so I doubt it. If anyone has been there
maybe they can tell us how large the connections are and how big the wires
are so we could know. The whole MK1 system is in question when installing a
larger alternator or generator because the wires and connections are only
designed for the original amount. If nothing ever happens it is fine but if
that alternator is ever told to put out a large amount of amps, disaster
could strike in the form of smoke from the insulation. I'm sure there is a
fudge factor but it could have been already used up by the 40+ years they
have existed. If you want to know more about how a shunt works, contact me
directly--Bill --
The Mk2 never actually had an ammeter, but there is a 50A ammeter that
is close to the original in font and trim.
The ammeter should only measure the current going to and from the
battery, so it is unlikely to pass the rated alternator output for any
significant period of time. Most of the alternator output will be used
to operate the car's electrical system.
However, "should" is the operative term here. I think that in practice,
a lot of installers were unclear on the intended purpose of the ammeter
and wired them straight into the ammeter output, and that will
definitely damage the ammeter in short order.
Easy way to tell if your ammeter is wired right:
Turn on the headlights (with the engine off and ignition off). Ammeter
needle should go to the "-" side. Now turn off the headlights and start
the engine. Ammeter should go to the "+" side, quite a bit when you
first start it and then quickly go to a steady reading, closer to zero
but still on the "+" side.
If the ammeter doesn't move when you turn on the headlights, then it's
wired incorrectly.
Theo
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