Steve,
That makes PERFECT sense. I was having trouble understanding the "big" wire
going to the big terminal and in effect cancelling out the 12V signal. You
made it very clear.
Thanks
Jerry Christopherson
9473187
_____
From: steve wick [mailto:srwick@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 8:46 PM
To: TIGERS@AUTOX.TEAM.NET; Jerry
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Starter solenoid
You have two circuits in the solenoid, a "start" circuit and a "hold"
circuit. It takes more electromagnetic force to start the solenoid moving
than to hold it in place. The higher force is generated when you first turn
the key to start moving the plunger. Both wires are generating
electromagnetic force. Once the contacts are made, you'll have 12V on both
sides of the larger wire and no current will flow through that circuit. Only
the smaller "hold" circuit will be energized until you release the key. This
system allows higher reliability in solenoid engagement without generating
higher heat and risking burning out the solenoid sooner. Hope this all makes
sense.
Steve (in N.Id.)
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry <mailto:JCMC2006@suddenlink.net>
To: TIGERS@AUTOX.TEAM.NET
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 11:23 AM
Subject: [Tigers] Starter solenoid
List,
Here is a question for all those electrical/electronics engineer types out
there.
Being the curious person I am I decided to cut apart a Ford starter solenoid
that was acting up, it was giving a little "chatter" as it engaged.
Now these things are sealed at the factory and not intended to take apart
for any service, but I'm always curious.
The specific starter I'm talking about is the small geared starter that is
on most all the ford engines since the early 90's, and fits very well on our
Tigers. They are lighter, more powerful and draw less power. And if you have
headers you can take them in and out without removing any thing else. Two
ways to wire them up, either works just fine. Mine has been in for 8 years,
I bought it at a junk yard for $30.00.
The symptom that my friend had (347 Ford race car) is as I said in the
beginning it sounded like a little chatter when engaging, as if the solenoid
was "bouncing" before finally engaging. I removed the starter and tested it
and it would run just fine except for the chatter so I concluded that the
solenoid may be the problem, a new one solved the problem.
Now to the question. I cut the solenoid apart, there are two windings in the
solenoid, one with a dia. of .23 the other is .41. The larger wire is
connected so when 12V is applied to the small tab on the outside of the
solenoid (normal attachment point) the plunger inside reacts and closes the
large contacts to send the high amperage to the motor, all simple stuff.
It's the smaller wire I'm wondering about. It is attached in the same place
as the larger wire (where the 12V start signal is applied to) on the out
side, but it's where these two wires are grounded that I'm wondering. The
bigger wire (.41) is grounded to the large external (13mm) nut that goes to
the starter motor, the smaller wire (.23) is grounded to a metal plate
inside the solenoid (by the way that was the problem, that attachment had
broken). The question is; why two different windings and why the two
different grounding points? (The smaller wire is a little longer).
Jerry Christopherson
PS Anyone else going to SEMA?
Tigers@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers
http://www.team.net/archive
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