Duke- if you have a regular battery, check the fluid level. Have you polerized
the syestem at anytime during these problems and last of all it seems this
problem existed in the past and the key switch had loose connectors and the
problem was there. It will be warm to the touch, even the small part the key
goes in but if you feel behind the dash it may well be hot- check with caution
in case its hot enough to burn your skin. If the lights have been on during
these problems the addded load might play a part eventho the lights are not
run thru the switch- they are on a seperate circuit.Check that switch tho.
TtT
--- On Wed, 5/27/09, Samouce's <wsamouce@kc.rr.com> wrote:
> From: Samouce's <wsamouce@kc.rr.com>
> Subject: [Tigers] Getting really stinking old....voltage regulator again
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Date: Wednesday, May 27, 2009, 7:15 AM
> If you all recall, I had lots of
> problems with my charging system on my
> recent trip to Texas. I replaced two voltage
> regulators and sourced and
> rebuilt a generator which failed instantly.
>
> The third voltage regulator worked well with the original
> generator, until
> yesterday.
>
> Here is what is going on. I turned off the ignition
> and the amp meter
> buried off the scale in the - and the ignition light came
> on. This is with
> the key out of the switch. I quickly turned the ignition
> back on and started
> the engine; amp meter came back to normal range. Now
> when I run the car,
> the amp meter is indicating an over charge from the
> generator which is
> obviously cause by the voltage regulator.
>
> This is exactly what happened a couple of months ago before
> the voltage
> regulator stopped working. Could a corroded engine
> ground strap be causing
> this?
>
> I am thinking of going with the solid state voltage
> regulator to see if that
> fixes this ongoing problem. I do not what to convert
> to an alternator at
> this time.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Duke
> B382002037
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