Tom,
Not sure what is out there in the Wilwood line and the like. A number of
people have used the older Datsun (Nissan) M/C for its top/bottom bolt
configuration. Some have used an older Mazda (and thus Ford Ranger) M/C.
Most of these M/C's came with 11/16" bores. A lot of these also came on
booster cars. So, it takes some adaptation for a rod between the pedal and
the M/C.
In my case installed a Datsun 610 (booster) M/C with a smaller 3/4" bore.
I'm hoping for a lighter pedal but with enough travel. The mounting holes
needed minimal filing to align. For a rod I used an adjustable piece from a
Volvo 122. The retaining washer had to be carefully ground down small enough
to fit the back of the bore, but large enough to be retained by the clip.
Adapting lines between the Tiger's British configuration and the Japanese
metric M/C is still a "work in progress." This also converts from a single
to a dual (tandem) configuration. Proportioning of the lines has yet to be
determined.
Like most things throwing enough money at it should take care of the
situation. For all the rest (on a budget)... "there's Master Cylinder (card)
adaptations." :-)
Tom (Witt)
>
> I'm in the middle of a debate, more like "going to school," over how to
> convert to manual brakes.
>
> The issue centers around a near catastrophic failure of the brake system
> which, fortunately, happened in my garage, as opposed to on the road: the
> rear brake line sprung a leak at the driver's side wheel cylinder. What
> I'd
> like to end up with is as close to a tandem brake system as possible. Not
> too hard to do, except the Girling brake booster is in the way.
>
> So, first question: What size master cylinder bore will stop the car
> without
> breaking the driver;'s leg in the process? I go back a long way; when I
> was
> young most cars didn't have power brakes, and they stopped with reasonable
> effort. Today that doesn't seem to be the case.
>
> Any thoughts? suggestions? Steve? Tom? Larry? Anyone?
>
> Tom
>
> ' 67 Mark 2, now moving under its own power.
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