I think I remember someone say they used electrical tape for the
channel and then trimmed the tape after install.
If Sunbeam Specialties has the correct channel material - use it.
I decided not to replace the plexi on my hardtop since they only had some
crazing and still clear. The job looked a bit intense at the time and I had
other major hurtles that needed attention.
Ron Fraser
-----Original Message-----
From: Tigers [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jay Laifman
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2014 2:34 PM
To: H B Elam
Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Hardtop side windows
Well, here is my two cents - from doing this a long time ago.
You have to drill out some of the rivets to get off one side of the
triangle. There is an L bracket inside each corner. So you want to drill
out two opposing sides, that is two legs, not all of them on one side. That
is because if you don't, the L brackets will still be in there and block the
glass from coming out.
You then need to get the replacement glass or plexiglass. The glass is not
"original" and is certainly heavier. But it won't fog or crack like the
original, especially around the latch hole. I got the glass.
You also need the thin rubber seal that lines the inside of the metal to
hold the glass.
I got both glass and rubber from Sunbeam Specialties.
Then put it back together with warm soapy water, and pop rivet the parts
back together. I recall that it wasn't difficult, but some time was needed
at the hardware store to get the right size pop rivet. Sunbeam Specialties
frequently has instructions on how to do things. If they have instructions
for this, I'd follow them over anything I've said!
Also, I am trying to remember how I fit the rubber inside the channels at
the corners. But I can't remember. I can look over the weekend and see if
it is clear.
I welcome anyone to add more, and even to disagree if I've remembered
incorrectly!
Jay
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