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Re: [Tigers] Dash Pieces

To: Stu <sabre2tgr@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Dash Pieces
From: Jeffery Randall via Tigers <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2016 06:21:49 -0400
Cc: Tiger List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: tigers@autox.team.net
References: <007e01d212ca$dd7d35f0$9877a1d0$@mayfco.com> <CA+DpG6535OE+EcyF22jMzHua+1MCTNfMBgcSYyHNd7oemBz0fw@mail.gmail.com>
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Voltage stabilizer correctly wired??

On Mon, Sep 19, 2016 at 11:02 PM, Stu via Tigers <tigers@autox.team.net>
wrote:

> The sensors work backwards to what you are thinking.  High temps or high
> fuel levels produce lower sensor resistances, therefore more current to
> heat the heater that bends the bimetal strip that moves the pointer.  If
> there was a higher resistance in the path, that would produce a lower gau=
ge
> reading.  A high reading indicates that there is a too low resistance
> somewhere, a short or something.  Are you sure you have the right temp
> sensor?
>
> If your regulator is the stock type, it should be switching at a low
> frequency, several times a second, bouncing the pointer of an analog mete=
r
> around. The on/off ratio causes the voltage, that's either 12V or 0, to
> average out to 10V.
>
> Stu
>
> On Mon, Sep 19, 2016 at 7:09 PM, Larry Mayfield via Tigers <
> tigers@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> As promised yesterday, I said I would send along resolution when
>> acquired. Today I declared success!  I started the morning will all the
>> gauges except the OP gage hanging loose on their wires. By the way, why =
is
>> the OP gauge such a beast to remove? I digress.
>>
>>
>>
>> I did a lot of voltage and ground checks and found those that needed to
>> be connected that were not.  I had been using one that is just behind th=
e
>> Fuel Gauge coming out of the main harness as it is a black wire and has =
the
>> same end as the daisy chained ground wires.  I traced the real temp grou=
nd
>> to the bolt head on the dash brace just under the voltage stabilizer. Th=
e
>> daisy wire to the fuel gauge broke off, lol as I was handling it. So fab=
=E2=80=99d
>> a new one.  I checked the ground wire coming from the harness to body
>> ground. Open circuit. Have no idea as to where it actually goes now. I
>> found that the voltage stabilizer itself was loosely mounted as well.
>> Tightened it up.  I took all the light switches out and examined them. A=
ll
>> in order. Applied power to the ignition, the lights, and the panel light=
s.
>> All lights now work and that includes all small indicator lights. I have
>> fully functional dash now and it is back together. Putting the meters ba=
ck
>> into place is, as mentioned difficult for an old geezer like me. So I
>> removed the driver=E2=80=99s seat and the steering wheel so that I could=
 at least
>> get under that side of the dash. Worked like a charm.
>>
>>
>>
>> I may still need to invest in a voltage stabilizer though. The temp read=
s
>> high when turned on but that could be to a high resistance connection at
>> the sensor.   Fuel ditto. But I suspect that it is all due to the
>> instrument voltage regulator.  Fuel level seem about right for what I pu=
t
>> in but a gallon less on gage would be better and that is about the
>> difference in reading from a 12 supplied system vs a 10 volt one.
>>
>>
>>
>> I appreciate all the help given to me and I hope you all did have a good
>> laugh at my expense, lol. Sometimes it was hilarious to me trying to fig=
ure
>> this out.  I have some photos of the car on my cell and I will download
>> onto my computer and shoot a couple of photos to the list.
>>
>>
>>
>> Next will be a new fuel pump, building of Master brake and clutch
>> cylinders and the slave associated with them. Parts on order from CAT.
>> Fuel [ump will likely be a Carter unit with about 35 gallon flow at abou=
t 5
>> psig.  And washing the engine bay! I had the car painted in 2010 and it =
is
>> full of gunk.  I have some LAT valve covers that need to be repolished (=
PO
>> of the valve covers had them sand blasted).  I have the Tiger oil pan as
>> well.  And the original Jerry Ballenger headers only Jet Hot coated.
>> Traction masters from Mr. Wheatley long ago gone. LAT wheels to be repla=
ced
>> by some 15 inch ones that I had painted grey with a beauty color pin str=
ipe
>> around the rim. Has shoulder belts new for safety also although I need t=
o
>> mod the mount slightly, my fold down soft top hide wont fold down enough=
,
>> New rag top in hand and hard top same as car color. Four new E=E2=80=99b=
ock shocks.
>> Car currently has 3.54 rear gears with posi trac.  And a box stock (near=
ly_
>> 260 as from the factory. Slight carb mod, and few trivial items, same
>> internal as delivered.  But, I also have a 289 5 bolt race motor I used =
in
>> the 60=E2=80=99s and a new salt flats 260 motor with EFI I could put in.=
 Both
>> require race gas though.  The 289 needs to be refreshed a lot. Other one
>> ins not broken in as yet.  And if challenged enough I could put together
>> another 302 motor with my Salt car pieces including large HP 72 turbo fo=
r a
>> LOT of hp and tq.  Traction is the issue now, lol. Fun stuff for an old =
guy=E2=80=A6
>>
>>
>>
>> mayf
>>
>> and again, many thanks to the list!
>>
>> _________________________
>> drmayf
>> Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
>> 204.913 mph flying mile
>> 210.779 mph exit (not top)  speed
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sabre2tgr@gmai=
l
>> .com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jefferyrandall@
> gmail.com
>
>
>
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr">Voltage stabilizer correctly wired??=C2=A0</div><div class=
=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Mon, Sep 19, 2016 at 11:=
02 PM, Stu via Tigers <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:tigers@autox.=
team.net" target=3D"_blank">tigers@autox.team.net</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br>=
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1p=
x #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default=
" style=3D"font-size:small">The sensors work backwards to what you are thin=
king.=C2=A0 High temps or high fuel levels produce lower sensor resistances=
, therefore more current to heat the heater that bends the bimetal strip th=
at moves the pointer.=C2=A0 If there was a higher resistance in the path, t=
hat would produce a lower gauge reading.=C2=A0 A high reading indicates tha=
t there is a too low resistance somewhere, a short or something.=C2=A0 Are =
you sure you have the right temp sensor?</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" =
style=3D"font-size:small"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"f=
ont-size:small">If your regulator is the stock type, it should be switching=
 at a low frequency, several times a second, bouncing the pointer of an ana=
log meter around. The on/off ratio causes the voltage, that&#39;s either 12=
V or 0, to average out to 10V.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"f=
ont-size:small"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:s=
mall">Stu</div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quo=
te"><div><div class=3D"h5">On Mon, Sep 19, 2016 at 7:09 PM, Larry Mayfield =
via Tigers <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:tigers@autox.team.net"; t=
arget=3D"_blank">tigers@autox.team.net</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br></div></div=
><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;paddin=
g-left:1ex;border-left-color:rgb(204,204,204);border-left-width:1px;border-=
left-style:solid"><div><div class=3D"h5"><div lang=3D"EN-US" vlink=3D"#CC66=
33" link=3D"#990066" background=3D"cid:image001.jpg@01D2128C.49FD63B0" bgco=
lor=3D"white"><img width=3D"0" height=3D"0" style=3D"width: 0px; display: n=
one; min-height: 0px;" src=3D"cid:image001.jpg@01D2128C.49FD63B0"><div><p c=
lass=3D"MsoNormal">As promised yesterday, I said I would send along resolut=
ion when acquired. Today I declared success!=C2=A0 I started the morning wi=
ll all the gauges except the OP gage hanging loose on their wires. By the w=
ay, why is the OP gauge such a beast to remove? I digress. <u></u><u></u></=
p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">I d=
id a lot of voltage and ground checks and found those that needed to be con=
nected that were not.=C2=A0 I had been using one that is just behind the Fu=
el Gauge coming out of the main harness as it is a black wire and has the s=
ame end as the daisy chained ground wires.=C2=A0 I traced the real temp gro=
und to the bolt head on the dash brace just under the voltage stabilizer. T=
he daisy wire to the fuel gauge broke off, lol as I was handling it. So fab=
=E2=80=99d a new one.=C2=A0 I checked the ground wire coming from the harne=
ss to body ground. Open circuit. Have no idea as to where it actually goes =
now. I found that the voltage stabilizer itself was loosely mounted as well=
. Tightened it up.=C2=A0 I took all the light switches out and examined the=
m. All in order. Applied power to the ignition, the lights, and the panel l=
ights. All lights now work and that includes all small indicator lights. I =
have fully functional dash now and it is back together. Putting the meters =
back into place is, as mentioned difficult for an old geezer like me. So I =
removed the driver=E2=80=99s seat and the steering wheel so that I could at=
 least get under that side of the dash. Worked like a charm. <u></u><u></u>=
</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">I=
 may still need to invest in a voltage stabilizer though. The temp reads hi=
gh when turned on but that could be to a high resistance connection at the =
sensor. =C2=A0=C2=A0Fuel ditto. But I suspect that it is all due to the ins=
trument voltage regulator.=C2=A0 Fuel level seem about right for what I put=
 in but a gallon less on gage would be better and that is about the differe=
nce in reading from a 12 supplied system vs a 10 volt one. =C2=A0<u></u><u>=
</u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNorma=
l">I appreciate all the help given to me and I hope you all did have a good=
 laugh at my expense, lol. Sometimes it was hilarious to me trying to figur=
e this out.=C2=A0 I have some photos of the car on my cell and I will downl=
oad onto my computer and shoot a couple of photos to the list. <u></u><u></=
u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"=
>Next will be a new fuel pump, building of Master brake and clutch cylinder=
s and the slave associated with them. Parts on order from CAT.=C2=A0 Fuel [=
ump will likely be a Carter unit with about 35 gallon flow at about 5 psig.=
=C2=A0 And washing the engine bay! I had the car painted in 2010 and it is =
full of gunk.=C2=A0 I have some LAT valve covers that need to be repolished=
 (PO of the valve covers had them sand blasted).=C2=A0 I have the Tiger oil=
 pan as well.=C2=A0 And the original Jerry Ballenger headers only Jet Hot c=
oated.=C2=A0 Traction masters from Mr. Wheatley long ago gone. LAT wheels t=
o be replaced by some 15 inch ones that I had painted grey with a beauty co=
lor pin stripe around the rim. Has shoulder belts new for safety also altho=
ugh I need to mod the mount slightly, my fold down soft top hide wont fold =
down enough, New rag top in hand and hard top same as car color. Four new E=
=E2=80=99bock shocks. Car currently has 3.54 rear gears with posi trac.=C2=
=A0 And a box stock (nearly_ 260 as from the factory. Slight carb mod, and =
few trivial items, same internal as delivered.=C2=A0 But, I also have a 289=
 5 bolt race motor I used in the 60=E2=80=99s and a new salt flats 260 moto=
r with EFI I could put in. Both require race gas though.=C2=A0 The 289 need=
s to be refreshed a lot. Other one ins not broken in as yet.=C2=A0 And if c=
hallenged enough I could put together another 302 motor with my Salt car pi=
eces including large HP 72 turbo for a LOT of hp and tq.=C2=A0 Traction is =
the issue now, lol. Fun stuff for an old guy=E2=80=A6<u></u><u></u></p><p c=
lass=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">mayf<u></=
u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">and again, many thanks to the list!<u><=
/u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Calib=
ri&quot;,sans-serif;font-size:11pt">_________________________<br>drmayf<br>=
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.<br>204.913 mph flying mile<br>210.779 mph e=
xit (not top)=C2=A0 speed<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u=
></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p></div></div><br></div></div>_________________________=
_____<wbr>_________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:tigers@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">tigers@autox.tea=
m.net</a><br>
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ailman/<wbr>options/tigers/sabre2tgr@gmail<wbr>.com</a><br>
<br>
<br>
<br></blockquote></div><br></div>
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<br></blockquote></div><br></div>

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