Excellent.. wow that was a tough one, congrats for getting to the root
cause.
Murphy's Law at work I guess, LOL.
Gary
On 10/3/2016 3:20 PM, Larry Mayfield wrote:
> Ok, the ugly dash is now 100% functional. When I sat down and tried to
> determine the reason for the temp meter going full scale when the fuel LGG
> power wore was removed and that coupled with the fact that when both were
> still connected nothing worked, I hit on the answer. That somewhere the LGG
> wire on the Fuel meter was shorting out and causing noting to work. I
> removed that gage, from the dash and could not see anything obvious, but
> when I put the fluke on it I had continuity from the LGG pi post to the
> case. Oops ! That is not supposed to be there. So I removed the terminal
> nut the post the bake lite washer and the opaque plastic under all of that
> and sure enough that threaded post from the gage internals was touching the
> outer gage metal case. Why? I have no idea as I am generally pretty careful
> about pulling wires from things. I had some shouldered nylon washers that
> my eldest son had when he was doing tats and used one to insulate the
> threaded piece. Then I put it all back together. Then I checked the temp
> gage, Dang, same identical issue! Same fix. All back together. Made a new
> better for me to install bracket for the new electronic voltage regulator
> and got that installed. Moment of truth... hit starter and engine came to
> life, no not springing to life but like me, sorta gently coming up to speed.
> I let it run for a while but it is really flooding and I need to repair the
> carb. Float is likely stuck wide open. But as it ran, the fuel gage
> climber to about 4 or 5 gallons, and it is off a bit at rest, so I can
> fiddle some with that one day and the temp came up to 170 degrees. I shut
> it off and wept tears of joy (well, not really but you get the idea).
>
> So no more dash items will be reported unless I get crazy and try and figure
> out the MGB unit and then check to see if the OEM unit is actually still
> working or not.
>
> Many, many, thanks to all of you who chimed in to assist, I needed the help
> for both inspiration and hope and encouragement. And a special thanks to
> Gary Winblad! Maybe one day I can get him an RC Cola and Moon Pie for
> gratuity. We are similar ages so that helped, lol...
>
> Mayf
>
> _________________________
> drmayf
> Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
> 204.913 mph flying mile
> 210.779 mph exit (not top) speed
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gary Winblad [mailto:garywinblad@comcast.net]
> Sent: Monday, October 3, 2016 8:10 AM
> To: Larry Mayfield <drmayf@mayfco.com>; Tiger List <tigers@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] More ugly dash issues or continuation anyway...
>
> It was a long time ago but.. I seem to remember that after sitting for
> years, my fuel sender was stuck, had to remove it and work it loose. That
> could explain some of your symptoms.
> Your Temp gauge works. You can
> substitute it with the fuel gauge (and vice versa) to see if the gauges
> work.
> Gary
>
>
> On 10/2/2016 4:07 PM, Larry Mayfield via Tigers wrote:
>> Well, not much good today. First off, I tried the MGB unit from VB.
>> As mentioned it was and is different in mounting and connections. I
>> did not play with it long however and plan to do more. I next set up
>> Theo and Tom's electronic unit. First failure was a broken anti
>> rotation tab on the 6061-T6 bracket. I wil remake one tomorrow from
>> softer aluminum. But I grounded the unit and put the G Ign and LGG
>> wires onto the posts. Because I had broken one tab, I covered the
>> post which will come into chassis contact if rotated, with shrink
>> tubing. Put more gasoline in car. Use a stick with magic marker tattle
>> stripe and stuck it into the tank: looks like I have maybe a 3^rd of a
>> tank now. Definitely enough to cause the needle to move if it wants
>> to. I had just finished reinstalling the entire heater water plumbing
>> also including the cast iron and copper T pieces. I installed a new
>> Temp sensor from Rick at SS. I used the OEM sender wire and ground
>> wire at the cast iron T. Gage wiring was per CAT diagrams and one of
>> the list members wiring on his car: LGG to the left side of the Temp
>> meter and right side on the Fuel meter. Satisfied I was not gonna fry
>> anything I tried starting the car. Start and immediately die. OOPS, I
>> know what this is: the White blue wire on the ballast came off. Yup.
>> And it had apparently touched ground somewhere as well as the 35 amp
>> fuse for that was blown. New fuse wire back where it goes. Car starts
>> albeit a tad flooded. After some fiddling, car idled nicely. This
>> after sitting for 7 years. I let the thing sit there and idle to get
>> the temp up. Meter never moved at all. Ditto fuel Temp was below 120
>> on meter, fuel is something around 1.001 gallons and hanging there. It
>> never moves. Just for chuckles I removed the fuel gage meter and
>> sender from the circuitry and zappo, tempo gage goes full scale. I
>> repeat this with the fuel gage meter and temp out of the loop and fuel
>> gage does not move. Tomorrow I am going to find a couple of
>> compatible potentiometers and use them as senders in each circuit.
>> That way I can see it eh meters themselves are toasted or ok. I have
>> somewhere in my pile of testing and experimenting residue, I am sure
>> to have two pots similar to what the senders are. I will try and find
>> a couple that are 1K max and near zero at the low end. That kinda
>> mimics the senders. That way, I can mix and match the wiring on the
>> meters easily and adjust to the pots to mimic the actual senders.
>>
>> Anybody see anything wrong here?
>>
>> If not, more info tomorrow at COB or thereabouts
>>
>> mayf
>>
>> _________________________
>> drmayf
>> Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
>> 204.913 mph flying mile
>> 210.779 mph exit (not top) speed
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> tigers@autox.team.net
>>
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>>
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