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Re: [Tigers] dual circuit master cylinder options?

To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] dual circuit master cylinder options?
From: Tom Witt via Tigers <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2019 10:08:53 -0700
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: tigers@autox.team.net
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References: <02f101d4f45c$79426530$6bc72f90$@atmospherebuilders.com>
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I adapted a Datsun 710 3/4=E2=80=9D master cylinder. It was originally atta=
ched directly to a booster and obviously in the Tiger it is not. I poked ar=
ound and found an adjustable push rod and rod capture piece from a Volvo 12=
2. The round capture piece was larger than the 3/4=E2=80=9D bore but I was =
able to grind its circumference down until it fit. Also of note was that th=
e Volvo rod end was more of a half round ball where as the plunger socket i=
n the master cylinder more of a taper. Likely not an issue as the ball just=
 stops at the appropriate depth of the taper. It all fit well, and there wa=
s a subtle looseness so I know the plunger was at the appropriate resting p=
oint.  I=E2=80=99d like to tell you how well it has worked but 19 years (an=
d counting) on jack stands offers no proof of results.

I believe this question has been asked before and someone directed the part=
y to a generic adjustable rod at one of the on line speed equipment vendors=
=2E  Likely they will be easier than finding a Volvo 122 push rod and modif=
ying it. I say this assuming that the 280Z master cylinder is similar to th=
e 710.

From: Richard Hyatt via Tigers 
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2019 6:58 AM
To: tigers@autox.team.net 
Subject: [Tigers] dual circuit master cylinder options?

HI,

I wondered if any had converted their tiger to a dual circuit brake master =
cylinder. If so, which type and year worked well for you. Two issues seem t=
o be plaguing my attempt to do this. I tried using a 1980 Datsun 280z maste=
r cylinder, This uses a loose rod to actuate it meaning the brake deal must=
 have a stop  or a custom push rod and modification to the master cylinder =
to keep the rod in place when letting off the brake pedal. The second issue=
 is that I had all custom brake lines made for my conversion to Wilwood dis=
ks all around but 2 attempts to get correct flare/fitting combination at th=
e new master cylinder have failed. Still have leaks. Not sure if the suppli=
er has used proper flare and fitting despite the info I provided. Any thoug=
hts on a better arrangement? Thanks.

Rick



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<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>I adapted a Datsun 710 3/4=E2=80=9D master cylinder. It was originally=
 attached 
directly to a booster and obviously in the Tiger it is not. I poked around =
and 
found an adjustable push rod and rod capture piece from a Volvo 122. The ro=
und 
capture piece was larger than the 3/4=E2=80=9D bore but I was able to grind=
 its 
circumference down until it fit. Also of note was that the Volvo rod end wa=
s 
more of a half round ball where as the plunger socket in the master cylinde=
r 
more of a taper. Likely not an issue as the ball just stops at the appropri=
ate 
depth of the taper. It all fit well, and there was a subtle looseness so I =
know 
the plunger was at the appropriate resting point.&nbsp; I=E2=80=99d like to=
 tell you how 
well it has worked but 19 years (and counting) on jack stands offers no pro=
of of 
results.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I believe this question has been asked before and someone directed the=
 
party to a generic adjustable rod at one of the on line speed equipment 
vendors.&nbsp; Likely they will be easier than finding a Volvo 122 push rod=
 and 
modifying it. I say this assuming that the 280Z master cylinder is similar =
to 
the 710.</DIV>
<DIV 
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri"; F=
ONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=3Dtigers@autox.team.=
net 
href=3D"mailto:tigers@autox.team.net";>Richard Hyatt via Tigers</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, April 16, 2019 6:58 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=3Dtigers@autox.team.net 
href=3D"mailto:tigers@autox.team.net";>tigers@autox.team.net</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> [Tigers] dual circuit master cylinder 
options?</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV 
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri"; F=
ONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV class=3DWordSection1>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>HI,<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>I wondered if any had converted their tiger to a dual =
circuit 
brake master cylinder. If so, which type and year worked well for you. Two =

issues seem to be plaguing my attempt to do this. I tried using a 1980 Dats=
un 
280z master cylinder, This uses a loose rod to actuate it meaning the brake=
 deal 
must have a stop&nbsp; or a custom push rod and modification to the master =

cylinder to keep the rod in place when letting off the brake pedal. The sec=
ond 
issue is that I had all custom brake lines made for my conversion to Wilwoo=
d 
disks all around but 2 attempts to get correct flare/fitting combination at=
 the 
new master cylinder have failed. Still have leaks. Not sure if the supplier=
 has 
used proper flare and fitting despite the info I provided. Any thoughts on =
a 
better arrangement? Thanks.<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>Rick<o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
<P>
<HR>
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