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The hinge is a wedge. So as you mount it sliding out it pushes the door bac=
k, and of course sliding in will push the door forward. And if you do the t=
op and bottom hinge differently, it will angle the door up or down depending=
on what you do. Don=E2=80=99t bend anything! Just need to slide them corr=
ectly. =20
> On May 20, 2026, at 1:26=E2=80=AFPM, Tom Witt via Tigers <tigers@autox.tea=
m.net> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> I'm dealing with the 101 final steps before I begin to primer my Tiger. T=
he drivers door has always had decent alignment for a 60's British car when c=
losed (picture 1). And closure took little effort.
>=20
> Today I removed the door latch and when I closed the door the alignment w=
as significantly off, about 3/16" to 1/4" at the upper edge (picture 2). A s=
econdary, possibly contributing issue is the window channel gap was inconsis=
tent (picture 3) thus I had attempted to make the pieces parallel. After I h=
ad bent those then I noticed the elevated gap on the latch end. Assuming it w=
as the parallel work on the door channel that was causing the problem I bent=
it back where it was. Predominantly the gap (upward elevation) at the door l=
atch was still off. And putting pressure on the door gap to increase it (eve=
n beyond where it was) did not help. Therefore it is my assumption that tryi=
ng to fix the window channel gap is not the greater cause. It was the remova=
l of the latch that is causing the problem.
>=20
> Curious I re-installed the latch, closed the door and the alignment was t=
he same, decent, closes relatively easy as it had been for the past 26 years=
. BTW, the car is on jackstands but they are under the axles (not the frame)=
so the car is and has been "loaded" as it would sit on the road the past 26=
years.
>=20
> SOOOooo..., my question is, it this typical? Is the upward rise at the la=
tch end of the door intentional (and corrected to alignment when closed at t=
he latch) perhaps to help reduce door rattle? I had considered shims on the h=
inges for better alignment but the screws won't come loose even with an impa=
ct screwdriver. I'm willing to live with it because when the door is closed a=
ll is good. This is no show car. Just a basket case Tiger being made service=
able. But I wanted to know other peoples experience.
>=20
> <GiAJjtv3DCCKjsNE.png>
> =20
> <8nmRWT7U5I0EPuCL.png>
>=20
> <u4M0amNGzrmJNdso.png>
>=20
> _______________________________________________
>=20
> tigers@autox.team.net
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e
>=20
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman@gmai=
l.com
>=20
>=20
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<html class=3D"apple-mail-supports-explicit-dark-mode"><head><meta http-equi=
v=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body dir=3D=
"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">The hinge is a wedge. S=
o as you mount it sliding out it pushes the door back, and of course sliding=
in will push the door forward. And if you do the top and bottom hinge=
differently, it will angle the door up or down depending on what you do. &n=
bsp;Don=E2=80=99t bend anything! Just need to slide them correctly. &n=
bsp;</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On May 20, 2026, at=
1:26=E2=80=AFPM, Tom Witt via Tigers <tigers@autox.team.net> wrote:<b=
r><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF=
=20
<meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUTF-8"=
>
=20
=20
<p> I'm dealing with the 101 final steps before I begin to primer m=
y
Tiger. The drivers door has always had decent alignment for a 60's
British car when closed (picture 1). And closure took little
effort.</p>
<p> Today I removed the door latch and when I closed the door the
alignment was significantly off, about 3/16" to 1/4" at the upper
edge (picture 2). A secondary, possibly contributing issue is the
window channel gap was inconsistent (picture 3) thus I had
attempted to make the pieces parallel. After I had bent those then
I noticed the elevated gap on the latch end. Assuming it was the
parallel work on the door channel that was causing the problem I
bent it back where it was. Predominantly the gap (upward
elevation) at the door latch was still off. And putting pressure
on the door gap to increase it (even beyond where it was) did not
help. Therefore it is my assumption that trying to fix the window
channel gap is not the greater cause. It was the removal of the
latch that is causing the problem.</p>
<p> Curious I re-installed the latch, closed the door and the
alignment was the <i><u>same, decent, closes relatively easy as
it had been</u></i> for the past 26 years. BTW, the car is on
jackstands but they are under the axles (not the frame) so the car
is and has been "loaded" as it would sit on the road the past 26
years.</p>
<p> SOOOooo..., my question is, it this typical? Is the upward rise=
at the latch end of the door intentional (and corrected to
alignment when closed at the latch) perhaps to help reduce door
rattle? I had considered shims on the hinges for better alignment
but the screws won't come loose even with an impact screwdriver.
I'm willing to live with it because when the door is closed all is
good. This is no show car. Just a basket case Tiger being made
serviceable. But I wanted to know other peoples experience.</p>
<p><div><GiAJjtv3DCCKjsNE.png></div> <div><8nmRWT7U5I0EPuC=
L.png></div></p>
<p><div><u4M0amNGzrmJNdso.png></div></p>
=20
<span>_______________________________________________</span><br><span></span=
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tp://www.team.net/donate.html</span><br><span>Archive: http://www.team.net/p=
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an>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jay.laifman@gma=
il.com</span><br><span></span><br><span></span><br></div></blockquote></body=
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