No resistor, just jumper the switch.
Jim Altman jaltman@altlaw.com Illigitimi non Carborundum
http://www.altlaw.com/metro/jaltman.html 69-TR6#CC28754L W4UCK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Cliff Hansen
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 1998 10:09 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Removing Dim/Dimmer/Off Rheostat
Hi,
I finally found the short that kept blowing fuses, in turn preventing
me from having dash lights. Its in the rheostat, must be internal,
I found it by pulling the switch plinth off, wiggling wires until something
started smoking. Then I removed all other wires but the hot one
from the rheostat, when I turned it back on it started smoking again.
Since the thing only has three settings (dim, dimmer, off), I am tempted
to simply connect the wires behind the dash, leaving the switch in just
for show. My question: should I add a small resister in series to replace
the switch? Something on the order of 4-5 ohms I think at least that's
what I measured between the terminals on the rheostat.
Making progress towards that June safety inspection...
Cliff Hansen
chansen@exis.net
1966 TR-4A CTC 64615L (improved lights, no speedometer)
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