"Jeffrey J. Barteet" wrote:
> Hi, Folks,
>
>
>
> I'd be interested in what those folks autocrossing and \ or roadracing
> their cars have to say on the subject of live axle rear end preparation.
>
> It is entirely possible the panhard rod is not needed, but I've seen them
> fitted to many other cars larger and smaller with a live axle and was just
> curious if anybody out there had one on their solid axle TR.
>
> -jeffrey
>
> Jeffrey J. Barteet, System Administrator
> National Center for Ecological Analysis and Synthesis
> 735 State St., Santa Barbara, CA
> barteet@nceas.ucsb.edu 805.892.2508
I can give you my personal experience but as they say, yours may vary.
Whn I built my TR4 vintage racer, I installed front and rear Addco sway bars,
and
installed an adjustable Panhard rod -- adjustable height at both ends.
Everything worked just fine except the rear end wanted to come around. On one
given
test day, we ran back-to-back runs using all combinations of this stuff and
incrementally improved the handling by first removing the rear sway bar and then
removing the Panhard rod. For some reason unknown to us, the Panhard rod added
oversteer. As I said, I don't know why. I hope some guys who are faster than me
will tell us their experience.
However, we do locate the rear axle with a spring locating kit supplied by
British
Frame and Engine, price $70 I think, phone 626-443-0939. With my stiffer
springs,
I'm not positively sure that the locating kit is necessary, but it works well. I
know of four other vintage raceer TR4's with this same experience, but there
may be
some I don't know about with Panhard rods.
As a contrast, my friend Joe Alexander runs a very very long Panhard rod and his
car handles just fine -- almost identical to mine.
--
uncle jack
TR engine prep
Vintage race prep
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