Wendy :
My suggestion is to make sure there are no leaking vacuum ports, and leave the
vacuum retard disconnected. It's only purpose in life was to lower emissions,
your engine will run better, cooler, burn less gas, etc. without it. The only
caveat is that without the retard, it may be hard to get the idle down with the
stock carbs. With the Weber, you should have no trouble at all.
If you can get a dizzy with a vacuum advance, IMO the advance is very
worthwhile for a street-driven engine. It will improve mid-range throttle
response, gas mileage, and may even help with overheating at low speeds.
However, the Weber may not have the 'ported' vacuum port necessary to run the
advance capsule. Paul Smock (a local club member) says he solved this problem
with a microswitch on the throttle linkage, and a electric vacuum solenoid from
a US car, arranged so the vacuum advance was supplied with manifold vacuum
except at idle (when you don't want the advance). ISTR he reported a 10-15%
improvement in gas mileage on his DCOE equipped TR4. I believe all the
variations of TR6 dizzy will interchange, but I'm not certain.
If you are having mysterious problems with poor engine performance, try
switching back to points instead of the XR-3000. At the moment, I've tried two
different XR-3000s in my TR3, with the result that it runs noticeably poorer
(hard to start, needs more choke longer, stumbles occasionally) with either of
them than with old, tired points.
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver
Wendy Hart wrote:
>
> What I'm wondering is should we hook the vacuum retard back up, and how do
> we do that? I think the early tr6 distributors had both a retard and an
> advance on them, the PI models had the vacuum advance only, and the late
> tr6's had just the retard. Has anyone ever tried swapping a late distributor
> with an early one or a PI distributor?
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