> Also good news: while I had the cover off, I readjusted the
> valves. Read
> something in the manual I'd missed all those other times: if you want
> performance, adjust inlet and exhuast valves at .013.
Strange ... what manual was that ? The factory clearance was .010" for all
but early TR2 with cast-iron rocker pedestals. And the comment there about
"high speed motoring" was not for increased performance, but to reduce valve
float at high engine rpm. After the alloy pedestals came in, .010" was the
spec for both normal and "high speed".
> 1) The nuts for adjusting the valves are smaller than 1/2
> inch, but are too
> big for 13 mm
That statement makes no sense ... a 13mm wrench is very slightly larger than
a 1/2" AF wrench. Are you sure you didn't pick up a 1/2" Whitworth wrench
by mistake ?
> What the heck are
> these? Do they come
> in a size I can get a wrench for?
Mine are 1/2".
> 2) Most perplexing of all, I find that my points with only a
> couple thousand
> miles on them, are adjusted as gapped as I can get them, and
> they're barely
> .015. I put on a set of new TRF points, thinking the arm
> that rides on the
> rotor might have worn down. Exactly the same problem. I
> don't recall this
> problem when I first did the car, but maybe. Can the steel
> rotor be that
> worn? Or might I have been getting the wrong points?
Both seem unlikely to me. First thing I would check is wobble in the
distributor shaft ... as the bushing wears, they move farther away from the
points. Next I would look to be sure the screw is what the fixed contact is
hitting when you try to move it farther away. Could be a piece of swarf or
something under the washer. Then I'd look at whether the point plate itself
is in good shape and assembled properly. There is kind of a funny spigot
where the moveable plate sits over the fixed plate ... might be the moveable
plate is dislodged or has worn through the spigot (unlikely).
The TRF P/N is LUDSB101, fits TR2-6 and some MGs.
Randall
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