You probably won't be able to get the pin out of the cross shaft. This
happened on my car, and I had to cut the shaft in half and remove it,
then install a new cross shaft and fork. It's also a good idea to
replace all clutch components (bearing, pressure plate, friction plate)
when doing this job. Best to get the TRF heavy duty throwout bearing,
as the standard ones are of very poor quality and will most likely go
south in just a few short months. It's more expensive, but well worth
it. Standard grade pressure and friction plates should be fine.
Tim Holbrook
1971 TR6
--- Kevin O'Connor <oconnor@fuse.net> wrote:
> Dear Listers:
>
> Last summer my TR6's clutch stopped functioning. When it broke, it
> felt and
> sounded like a mechanical snap. I've just now gotten the tranny out
> to
> inspect the dammage.
>
> The clutch fork pin is indeed broken. It is broken just above the
> threaded
> section, so part of the pin is still in the fork-shaft assembly.
> Question:
> How best to get this out? The fork does not want to move off the
> shaft, but
> it will pivot with force.
>
> Next question is about the clutch itself. The friction material is
> not worn
> to the rivets yet. How thick should the friction material be (total)
> before
> it is worn out? The pressure plate seems to be in good shape, but
> are there
> any definite signs that one should replace it too?
>
> The T/O bearing looks good too, but I'll probably replace it. Along
> with
> the pilot bearing too. Any advice it greatly appreciated.
>
> Thank you,
> Kevin D. O'Connor
> '71 TR6 Jasmine/New Tan
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