Josh, I bought some recently because mine were loose too, but some of those
fittings are not exactly cheap (some of the curved ones are $5 each which
seems a bit excessive). If you remove the vacuum line to the distributor with
engine idling, you should notice a definite increase in RPM since a properly
working vacuum retard unit will normally cause a drop in RPM. If not, it may
be caused by your hoses, fittings or the retard unit itself. If you dont have
a vacuum pump gizmo, then disconnect the hose at the distributor and feel for
a vacuum at idle. If not, work your way back to the carb, where you should
definitely have some vacuum. Assuming you have a leak whatever the cause, you
should at least check your timing so that you get 10 degrees BTDC at normal
idle, which is the same as the static value but should work if you plug the
carb vacuum port. Leave it plugged until you decide to fix it, at which time
you can recheck the timing, and then should be closer to 4 degrees ATDC
dynamic spec at idle and with hose connected to retard unit.
The EGR can be tested by raising the engine speed to >2000 RPM for a few
seconds and then quickly back to idle. If the EGR stem moves when you let off
the gas, then the valve and plumbing are ok. BTW, my understanding is that
raising the piston 0.25 inch is too much, try something like 1/16 inch.
John - 1976 TR6
Josh wrote:>
Listers, as I have been winding down the carb adjustment road I have been
checking my entire vacuum set-up for leaks. I noticed the elbow fittings
connected to the carbs and the distributor retard unit fit VERY loosely
(they are not cracked or broken in any way but the holes are a bit
enlarged). My intuition tells me they should be replaced (very cheap to do)
but prior ordering I figured I would ask the list to confirm that "loose" is
not the norm. My second question is a bit more perplexing (at least for me).
When I pull these elbows off the carbs and/or the distributor NOTHING
changes in terms of the engine idle (the idle also stays the same when I put
a finger on the port at the carb). Based on the "big blue book" my idle
should rise...no? As a reference I have been running very lean (upon lifting
the carb pistons the requisite .25 inch the car virtually dies) and am
making sure the vacuum and fuel delivery (fuel filter was a mess) systems
are in good shape prior to my resuming carb adjustment.
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