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Re: Clutch Fork Pin

To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Clutch Fork Pin
From: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 14:02:04 -0800 (PST)
 Ryan---Odd as it may seem at first, the clutch fingers will only push
back on the SC pushrod, via the clutch shaft operating arm, the distance
that it was pushed in. If the pin is broke, this usually means that part
of the fork pin nub that is left will  move very little.
I believe R. Williams movement of .625 was for the early clutch MC's
that had the larger .75 bore, which we know moves more fluid per stroke.
Most of the later MC's move the SC pushrod about .500.This is still more
that enough to disengage the clutch when everything else is in decent
shape.
To sum up, there should be no gap between ANY of the parts between the
SC and the clutch fingers, as this is a hydraulic system. This would be
true no matter if the pin is broken, the clevis is worn, or holes are
sloppy. It should adjust like wear in the front brake
system...automatically. If this disengagement problem came about
suddenly (did you hear a pop?) we may safely rule out play in the pedal
box, which of course can also shorten the stroke.

Dick Taylor
'73
L.A.
 
Sender: owner-6pack@autox.team.net From: 004, 10:59am To:
6pack@autox.team.net Subject: clutch well this morning all of a sudden
i'm having disengagement problems, once again. 
how much travel should i have at the slave cylinder pushrod-crossshaft
arm? 
ryan 
71 TR6 





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