Todd---Since you've replaced the rear springs, let's for now rule out
the most common cause of negative wheel camber, that being worn out
springs. We know that the height of the compressed spring is the main
factor in the tilt of the wheel. This puts the trailing arm bracket
location into the picture. I would check to see that the "notches" on
both the inner and outer brackets are the same on both sides, given that
only your passenger side is the one that has the inward tilt.
It's possible that the trailing arm bushings are worn as well, but
again, these usually wear out more or less equally on both sides. The
"wandering around of the rear wheels in turns" points to toe changes,
brought about by worn bushings.
You could take the easy out here (tho I don't recommend it) and just add
spacer under the road spring on this side. The right thickness could get
the wheels even again.
I doubt you'll find the answer to this with a tube shock conversion, or
that the diff mounts contributed to your problem.
See what Nelson has to say about "camber" at the buckeyetriumphs.org web
site. All you'll need to know about this subject is written here.
Dick
>From Todd
All,
I've been living with some serious negative camber in the passenger side
rear wheel. To date I've installed shocks that were supposed to be new
or rebuilt...they don't seem to bounce or leak. I've also installed the
uprated springs from BPNW.
Will worn out shocks cause negative camber? If not, what's the correct
steps for correcting? I'm guessing it's replace the 30 year old bushings
1st then start playing with the brackets. Then to the spacers sold by
Moss?
Am I all wet? Will a simple tube shock conversion do the trick? The back
end seems to wander on me around turns. Did I mention I have a "wobble"
when I turn the wheel? Not quite a vibration...more of a wobble. The
hubs seem fairly tight. Could this be u-joints? I did replace the diff
mounts with urethane.
Thanks in advance,
Todd
74TR6
TR250
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