Nick--- I made my own stop bolt bracket and location, so I don't know
if we would be comparing distances at the same place. (If you opted for
Herman's latest kit, he offered the same setup as I have)
Anyway, there's 1-1/2 inches between the head of the stop bolt and the
underside of the pedal arm, when the pedal is at rest. From this point,
the clutch starts to disengage with one inch of pedal movement, and
complete disengagement when the pedal is 1/4 inch away from the stop
bolt. Of course this is down low away from the pivot point. The pad part
of the pedal moves much farther.
It's true that shortening the MC pushrod won't
change the stroke of the pedal, only lower it.
If none of this appeals to you, I'm sure one could fit an MC with a
smaller bore. This could make for longer stroke, and also further reduce
the amount of pressure necessary to work the clutch. You're on your own
as to what MC or bore size to use!
I would agree that it does take some getting used to the new clutch
dis/engagement point with this hydraulic clutch setup. Not long, tho.
Dick
From:
gln@worldpath.net(Nick Gemas)
Dick,
I measured from the back of the clutch pedal to
the head of the stop bolt, at the stop bolt location, after adjustment.
Can you check yours at this location and let me know. The thing that
bothers me is not only the limited travel but the fact that engagement
and disengagement all happens in only about 1" of travel or even a bit
less. Adjusting the length of the pushrod won't really change this
crucial area will it? Thanks,
Nick
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