The list has been a tremendous assist in the past so once again I come
begging! In the recent past, I was wrestling with ignition and
carburetor issues which were resolved handily with the replacement of
all ignition components except the coil and distributor. The car was
suffering backfiring through the carbs on acceleration and was the
result of the float on the rear carb being set too high. Once I had
checked and reset the floats on both carbs, rechecked timing at 4BTDC,
idle is perfect right at ~850RPM and, until yesterday, I was a happy
camper, performance was good, fuel consumption was down, and the sun was
finally shining after a month of rain.
The sneezing and farting through the carbs has returned and I have
detected the smell of gasoline in the crankcase; I had just changed the
oil from the last go round! I cannot detect any fuel leakage from the
float bowl at rest so whatever is happening is occurring while the
engine is running. Idle is now up around 1000RPM and I suspect a
sticking float causing a rich mixture, probably the rear carb again but
I cannot be sure.
Question #1: is there anything I can do to prevent a float valve from
sticking or should I just bite the bullet and put kits in each
carburetor? When I had the carbs apart last week, they appeared to be
pretty clean on the inside, I saw no accumulated gunk, varnish or
foreign matter anywhere. What really pisses me off is that I watched the
oil pressure drop from 40 or so pounds at idle to around 10-20 which was
my first clue, besides the sneezy carbs, that all was not well and I was
about a half mile from home. The car will not be driven until the carb
issue is resolved and the oil changed again. Question #2: is there a
chance that the diluted oil caused any problems?
As always, I appreciate all the input from you guys!
Rick Norris
Ponca City, OK
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