With contact cement. And none of the water soluable(sp?) stuff- the
real, explosive contact cement in a quart can. The process is much
like laying Formica.
Brush the cement onto the substrate and the veneer, then let it dry
completely. Then brush it on the substrate again, and let it dry
completely. Then line up some sort of little sticks- split paint
stirrers, or something like that on the substrate about 3 inches apart.
Then lay the veneer over the little sticks. Position the veneer
EXACTLY where you want it. Now, slide out one of your little shims
from one end or the other, andpress down the veneer. Be aware, once
the veneer touches the substrate, it is too late. It is now stuck,
permanently. Now slide out the second little shim, nect to the first
one you removed. At this point, a printer's roller comes in handy. It
looks kind of like a tiny paint roller, made of hard rubber. Use it to
roll out the veneer TOWARDS the remaining little shims- you are
chasing the air bubbles that direction.
Continue, one shim at a time, from ONLY ONE END. If you start
alternating ends, you will wind up with your air bubble in the middle,
not a good thing!
When you are all done, use a razor blade to cut out the veneer over all
the instrument and switch cutouts. DO NOT try to cut the veneer first,
and then match it all up. Likewise, cut the veneer larger than your
dash blank, and use a razor blade to trim around the outside of the
dash.
PATIENCE!
It is really not that difficult if you take your time.
Kevin
janah@att.net wrote:
>This topic is timely - sort of. So how is the veneer best applied?
>
>John Cyg.
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