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FW: [6pack] accelerating engine issue (long) part II

To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: FW: [6pack] accelerating engine issue (long) part II
From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 10:40:53 -0700
 continued from part I...

     NOTE: If the valves are *way* misadjusted in the first place, you
may need to "hunt" for the transition point in the idle speed. I would
start by turning the valve fully CLOCKWISE (Gently - it is a brass screw
and can be stripped!!) until it stops. The idle speed may rise
noticeably (or it may not, depending on where it was set when you
originally adjusted the idle screw). Now start turning the screw COUNTER
CLOCKWISE. At some point the idle will fall very noticeably if the valve
is working. If you cannot get the idle to fall, the valve is defective
and needs a rebuild.
    You may have the idle fall to a very slow speed, or the engine may
stall as you turn the screw counter clockwise. Adjust the idle stop
screw for the correct idle speed and continue. All this means is that
the idle was probably set with one or both of the bypass valves open in
the first place - hence the idle speed was adjusted to "hide" the bypass
valve problems.
    When all of this is working, you can reconnect the breather hose to
the carbs. You may need to readjust the idle speed again (but NOT the
bypass valves). If your idle gets rough and difficult to set when the
breather hoses are reconnected, you either have excessive blow by or
perhaps a non standard cam. In that case, experiment with a restrictor
in the breather line.

        Cheers,

        Vance


________________________________

From: rweber [mailto:rmweber_99@yahoo.com]
Sent: September 17, 2007 9:03 AM
To: Navarrette, Vance
Subject: RE: [6pack] accelerating engine issue


Vance,
I saw your response post to John's inquiry and I hope you don't mind me
jumping into the thread. I'm similarly having a really rough time
getting a decent idle after rebuilding my carbs although not quite
having problems to the same extent as John. I finally got the correct
B1AF adjustable needles into the carb to replace the fixed B1AF and the
jet was adjusted from 0.080 down to 0.120 down from the bridge but it
still isn't running right. New plugs, wires, Pertronix, coil, vaccum
hoses so everything points back to carb settings.

I really have no idea how to adjust the bypass valve so it is currently
not adjusted. I'm a little confused by your instructions. You indicate
to adjust the bypass until the the idle returns to normal but the idle
speed is set on the rear of the carb with the idle stop screw as part of
the balancing of the carbs. I'm a little confused by this. In addition,
which adjuster are you talking about when you indicate to "turn the
adjuster one full turn counter clockwise to insure the valve is fully
seated"? I've attached some images to show the carb side so maybe you
can elaborate on which screws to turn.

Thanks,
Ron
71TR6
Annville, PA




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