Hi, Jerry---My first attempt in replying must've been bounced, so I'll shorten
this one. If this one is incomplete, write me off line, if you wish
I need to repeat here that I have no affiliation with Gunst in any way. The
only reason I'm familiar with his product is that Nelson Riedel asked me if I
wanted to try "something new" in regards to a clutch throwout bearing. I had
been having problems with other brands back in early 2000+, so I agreed.
Nelson has a report on this in the Buckeye Triumph web site, as you may know.
This bearing was running silently after approx. 10,000 miles. The only reason
that it was removed was because of converting to the Toyota 5 speed, which
requires a different bearing configuration. I used the preload spring and
strap, as directed. I also was using (and still do) the Borg & Beck blue dot
pressure plate.
Now..You asked for "thoughts" about all of this, as you had problems with
signs of excessive wear, and rust. One must visualize what goes on here as the
t/o bearing meets the clutch fingers. IF the bearing was turning freely and
silently when spun by hand before installation, then it should do so when
meeting the clutch fingers and spin happily with the preload applied. There
are reasons why it wouldn't, so I'll list those that come to mind.
Misalignment is the biggest cause for squealing. This can be caused by :
a) non-use of the (two) .375 dowel pins when the bellhousing and engine back
plate bolts together.
B) loose fit between the bearing sleeve and the front cover. (bearing/sleeve
would hang down and be below the centerline of the clutch.
c) missing (three) clutch alignment pins.
D) worn or missing pilot bushing in the crankshaft or flywheel.
I don't think the culprit here is the style of the clutch, or its fingers The
fact that you still get this squeal after depressing the clutch 1/3 of the way
suggests that the bearing and clutch are spining in different circles. The
'extra" pressure exerted when applying 100 lb. of force thru the clutch pedal
could be the reason things eventually get pulled back into concentricity.
The Toyo is a nice, stout bearing. It should wear well. I is also the heaviest
of all, so getting it up to engine speed from idle or at gear changes will be
more difficult. (Finger wear)? Because it mates farther down the fingers,
clutch pedal effort will be greater, if that's an issue with anyone. It was
one of the ones tried some years back, and produced a squeal when first
engaging the clutch. I took it back out. I don't like squeals or chirps.
I would be interested in how all of this shakes out, when you get your car
back on the road!
Dick
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry C Shaw
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2009 4:02 PM
To: tr6taylor@webtv.net
Subject: Interesting observation on Gunst T/O bearing
I'm using an LUK. Any thoughts, since I'm just putting my TR6 together. See
http://www.triumphowners.com/registry.cgi?sectionID=111014&vehicleID=977
http://www.74tr6.com/clutchreplacement.htm
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