Al---Lot's of maybes here. First it would be good to actually measure the
amount of movement of the SC pushrod. There should have a half inch to
disengage the clutch. (Slightly less is necessary if you use the top [not
recommended] hole in the actuating arm).
Then there's the possibility of air in the hydraulic system. Be sure there is
none.
If everything above is in order, then not much left except to take out the
tranny and look inside at the parts in the bell housing. To strengthen a weak
spot in this setup, add a second pin to the fork where it goes thru the clutch
operating shaft, if this is hasn't already done.
I will assume that the new flywheel isn't part of the problem. (*In backwards)?
Check that the crankshaft thrust washers are still in place, by levering the
shaft back, then forward.
I wouldn't think that the problem is in the clutch or pressure plate. If it is,
it should be obvious when inspecting it. *A backwardly installed clutch disc
comes to mind. It should be marked "flywheel side".
Let us know. Always like to here one's solution to these things!
Dick
-----Original Message-----
From: Al Salvatore
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 6:29 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] tr6 clutch problem
On my tr6 restoration project, the motor was rebuilt and runs fine. I
installed a forenza alloy flywheel. put a new throw out bearing and sleeve. I
reused a Luk pressure plate and clutch disc that I had in my other 6 that had
come out when I had clutch engagement problems. That problem was cured when
we took out the clutch and found that the sleeve was for a TR4, Previous to
that the clutch fork had cracked. I put back in a used bork & beck.
So I figured it would be ok to reuse the Luk pressure plate and disc. I guess
I figured wrong , right now I am thinking the pressure plate was damaged in
the other episode. unless theres something else to look at. Can't put it in
gear and theres plenty of movement with the slave cylinder.
Al
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