6 in cold storage (I mean brrr frostbite cold) for winter in detached
garage. Go out there last week, what's this, a big mess of brake fluid on
the floor. Swear a bit, head inside to warm up and think. A friend says to
look where MC is attached to booster, happened to him. Sure enough, he's
right about the source of leak. I suppose seals were deteriorating as there
was some black stuff suspended in the brake fluid the past few years. Okay,
now what.
1. I do have a new MC that I bought on ebay several years ago.
Looks identical to original. Metal casting is gold in colour. Came wrapped in
wax paper in a Unipart box that said made in GB or England. Nothing on MC to
identify manufacturer.
2.. I understand I need to bench bleed the MC. Are
there instructions for this somewhere?
3. Replace the MC and bleed the whole
system?
4. Is the PWDA likely to need re-centering after this?
5. Is there
anything else I should do or know, such as have brake booster rebuilt?
I have
a set of cuppro-nickel TR6 brake pipes all nicely rolled up in a bag from a
Scottish ebayer. they need to be bent, which I've never done, although I
have a pipe bending tool. that's supposed to be for these tasks. Taking the
old ones off and installing the new ones while on my back under a greasy oily
dirty car might not be a really pleasant job. Maybe I should have bought the
pre-bent stainless pipes to make my life a little easier. I installed ss
brake hoses a few years ago, so I've a little expereince here.
Should I use
the original style clips to hold the pipes to the frame or, is there a better
alternative?
l have a propane construction heater that will heat the garage
to a workabe temperature, or, I can always wait till warmer spring
weather. Having car ready to go come spring is of course the best.
Thanks
a bunch for any advice or suggestions.
Bruce Simms
73 TR6
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