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<mohawktriumphs@aol.com> wrote:
> Rick,
> Keep up the good work ! It is inspiring to us dolts who have
> TR's waiting for us ...
>
Thank you,
My long-winded post was just a brain dump, having awakened far too early
and written while pondering my own restoration motives. That was a day or
two ago. Here is the plan for today.
You know that little triangle-shaped brace at the rear of a TR6's door
opening? It's an upholstered piece of sheetmetal covered on the edge and
inside first by a piece of folded heavy card stock, then vinyl. Well,
recovering those little buggers was the last restoration step that I
addressed. That was a few days ago. Today, I hope to complete that job.
The upholstery kit includes the bulk vinyl for these braces, as well as
the cards. Before leaving my shop last time, I cemented the vinyl to the
outside faces of the triangles. I used carpet cement rather than contact
cement so the vinyl's position could be adjust for a precise fit. The card
stock provided another problem.
Although the card is pre-cut and scored at the bend point between edge
and side, the stock is so stiff that it is really difficult to bend to the
required 90=C2=B0 angle! I first thought of using pliers to bend the edge
section over but decided that damage was more likely than precision. So
today, I am going to bring the cards home from the shop and reshape them in
my garage where I have to proper tools. Specifically, a big vice and a
couple of straight boards.
I'll clamp the thin edge - its only about 3/4" (2cm) wide - between two
boards in the vice with the scored seam just above the joint. I will then
fold the card over to 90=C2=B0 while lightly tapping the seam with a hammer=
.
Doing so will reshape the card leaving it with the proper shape. It can
then be lightly cemented to the triangular brace and further held in
alignment by the upholstery vinyl. That's obviously a multi-step process
done at home and at my shop. So before the reshaping bit I will do other
work. Specifically, applying carpet to the sills.
Earlier I had cut all the carpet pieces, including the long narrow sill
carpets. And here I must insert an aside. My family immigrated to America
from Scotland so being frugal - okay, cheap and tight-fisted - is in my
DNA. The phrase 'Scot free' was not invented without reason! Anyway, the
carpet I am using in my TR6 is a left-over from restoring another car,
specifically a '73 Volvo 1800ES. Because the carpet available was a remnant
and a bit irregularly shaped, I had to first guarantee that I could cut all
the pieces necessary and in the right orientation (carpet has a 'grain',
for lack if a better term). That's why layout and all cutting was done
before installing any pieces was done. I had just barely enough stock to do
the job!
Without intending an endorsement and only because a couple of you have
asked, here is where I buy my automobile carpet.
https://www.automotiveinteriors.com/carpet-yardage-and-vinyl-for-cars-truck=
s-suvs-s/17303.htm
And just to complete the references, I also use Instabind to form a neat
edge, where needed. No, it's not a high end solution but neither is it
extremely costly. Here's the link.
https://www.bondproducts.com
Okay, back on track. Today I hope to install the carpet on the sills.
Did I already say that? Anyway, I will use contact cement there since the
surface is curved. I may go back and apply a little carpet cement under the
lower edge, just to make sure it doesn't pull loose. The upper edge is
captured under the weather strip molding so it can't go anywhere.
If that job goes without a major hitch, I may also cement down the lower
edges of the tunnel carpet. I lightly attached it to the insulation on the
cover, just to guarantee its position. The final step, now that the upper
bits are secure, will be to trim and lightly cement the carpet's lower edge
where it meets the floor pan.
I haven't yet decided whether to edge bind the floor carpets. I guess
the better plan will be to place those carpet bits in the car and see if
binding is needed. If so, I have an ample supply of Instabind to do the
job. I also have new floor mats to go in over the carpet.
I'll stop now because I have worn the letters off of my keyboard keys.
Thanks for reading this far. Pictures to follow a bit later.
Rick
>
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<div dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"auto"><div class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"auto"=
><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr"><<a href=3D"mailto:mohawktriumphs=
@aol.com">mohawktriumphs@aol.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=
=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padd=
ing-left:1ex">Rick,<br>Keep up the good work ! It is inspiring to us dolts =
who have <br>TR's waiting for us ...<br></blockquote></div></div><div d=
ir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><span style=3D"font-family:sans-ser=
if">Thank you,</span><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">=C2=
=A0 =C2=A0My long-winded post was just a brain dump, having awakened far to=
o early and written while pondering my own restoration motives. That was a =
day or two ago. Here is the plan for today.</div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D=
"font-family:sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0You know that little triangle-shaped =
brace at the rear of a TR6's door opening? It's an upholstered piec=
e of sheetmetal covered on the edge and inside first by a piece of folded h=
eavy card stock, then vinyl. Well, recovering those little buggers was the =
last restoration step that I addressed. That was a few days ago. Today, I h=
ope to complete that job.</div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-=
serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0The upholstery kit includes the bulk vinyl for these br=
aces, as well as the cards. Before leaving my shop last time, I cemented th=
e vinyl to the outside faces of the triangles. I used carpet cement rather =
than contact cement so the vinyl's position could be adjust for a preci=
se fit. The card stock provided another problem.</div><div dir=3D"auto" sty=
le=3D"font-family:sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Although the card is pre-cut and=
scored at the bend point between edge and side, the stock is so stiff that=
it is really difficult to bend to the required 90=C2=B0 angle! I first tho=
ught of using pliers to bend the edge section over but decided that damage =
was more likely than precision. So today, I am going to bring the cards hom=
e from the shop and reshape them in my garage where I have to proper tools.=
Specifically, a big vice and a couple of straight boards.</div><div dir=3D=
"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I'll clamp the thi=
n edge - its only about 3/4" (2cm) wide - between two boards in the vi=
ce with the scored seam just above the joint. I will then fold the card ove=
r to 90=C2=B0 while lightly tapping the seam with a hammer. Doing so will r=
eshape the card leaving it with the proper shape. It can then be lightly ce=
mented to the triangular brace and further held in alignment by the upholst=
ery vinyl. That's obviously a multi-step process done at home and at my=
shop. So before the reshaping bit I will do other work. Specifically, appl=
ying carpet to the sills.</div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-=
serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Earlier I had cut all the carpet pieces, including the =
long narrow sill carpets. And here I must insert an aside. My family immigr=
ated to America from Scotland so being frugal - okay, cheap and tight-fiste=
d - is in my DNA. The phrase 'Scot free' was not invented without r=
eason! Anyway, the carpet I am using in my TR6 is a left-over from restorin=
g another car, specifically a '73 Volvo 1800ES. Because the carpet avai=
lable was a remnant and a bit irregularly shaped, I had to first guarantee =
that I could cut all the pieces necessary and in the right orientation=C2=
=A0 (carpet has a 'grain', for lack if a better term). That's w=
hy layout and all cutting was done before installing any pieces was done. I=
had just barely enough stock to do the job!</div><div dir=3D"auto" style=
=3D"font-family:sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Without intending an endorsement a=
nd only because a couple of you have asked, here is where I buy my automobi=
le carpet.</div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-family:sans-serif"><br></di=
v><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D""><font face=3D"sans-serif"><a href=3D"https:/=
/www.automotiveinteriors.com/carpet-yardage-and-vinyl-for-cars-trucks-suvs-=
s/17303.htm">https://www.automotiveinteriors.com/carpet-yardage-and-vinyl-f=
or-cars-trucks-suvs-s/17303.htm</a></font><br></div><div dir=3D"auto" style=
=3D""><font face=3D"sans-serif"><br></font></div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D=
""><font face=3D"sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0And just to complete the referenc=
es, I also use Instabind to form a neat edge, where needed. No, it's no=
t a high end solution but neither is it extremely costly. Here's the li=
nk.</font></div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D""><font face=3D"sans-serif"><br>=
</font></div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D""><font face=3D"sans-serif"><a href=
=3D"https://www.bondproducts.com";>https://www.bondproducts.com</a><br></fon=
t></div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D""><font face=3D"sans-serif"><br></font><=
/div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D""><font face=3D"sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Ok=
ay, back on track. Today I hope to install the carpet on the sills. Did I a=
lready say that? Anyway, I will use contact cement there since the surface =
is curved. I may go back and apply a little carpet cement under the lower e=
dge, just to make sure it doesn't pull loose. The upper edge is capture=
d under the weather strip molding so it can't go anywhere.</font></div>=
<div dir=3D"auto" style=3D""><font face=3D"sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0If that=
job goes without a major hitch, I may also cement down the lower edges of =
the tunnel carpet. I lightly attached it to the insulation on the cover, ju=
st to guarantee its position. The=C2=A0final step, now that the upper bits =
are secure, will be to trim and lightly cement the carpet's lower edge =
where it meets the floor pan.</font></div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D""><fon=
t face=3D"sans-serif">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I haven't yet decided whether to edg=
e bind the floor carpets. I guess the better plan will be to place those ca=
rpet bits in the car and see if binding is needed. If so, I have an ample s=
upply of Instabind to do the job. I also have new floor mats to go in over =
the carpet.</font></div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D""><font face=3D"sans-ser=
if">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I'll stop now because I have worn the letters off of m=
y keyboard keys. Thanks for reading this far. Pictures to follow a bit late=
r.</font></div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D""><font face=3D"sans-serif"><br><=
/font></div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D""><font face=3D"sans-serif">Rick</fo=
nt></div></div><div dir=3D"auto"><div class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"auto"><b=
lockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px =
#ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
</blockquote></div></div></div>
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