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boundary="Apple-Mail=_7044A143-40AB-4D46-A5D3-EBD35D36E951"
--Apple-Mail=_7044A143-40AB-4D46-A5D3-EBD35D36E951
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
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Thanks for all the informed replies. I very much appreciate the =
advice. I did source hydraulic assembly grease form British Parts =
Northwest and will attempt to rebuild the master, and if that fails to =
repair the problem, I=E2=80=99ll source a new one. This is kind of one =
of those =E2=80=9CThe journey is more important the destination=E2=80=9D =
projects while I=E2=80=99m sticking around the house
The master cylinder that I had totally fail had been re-sleeved =
as part of the original rebuild process. We are fortunate to have an =
array of options in repairing our old Triumph cars. In watching =
automobile restoration shows, Im amazed at the lengths and expense that =
restorers have to go to get replacement parts. In most cases we are =
only a phone call (mouse click) away from a part.
After the m/c rebuild is finished I'll have caught up with the =
necessary maintenance on my cars and will move on to unnecessary =
maintenance.
Thanks again all for the help and suggestions. Stay safe.
Best,
Bob=20
=E2=80=9972 Tr6
> On May 17, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com> =
wrote:
>=20
> Why bother to rebuild an old one when new ones are available? I like =
the finish on the original Girling master cylinders, and I trust a =
brass-sleeved original more than a modern Chinese knockoff. The price =
for something I'll likely do once in my life isn't a big consideration. =
That my car still has the master cylinders it was build with makes me =
happy.
>=20
> But Standard-Triumph always appealed to "frugal" owners, so I get that =
a simple drop-in chinesium replica will be attractive to many owners.
>=20
> On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 11:46 AM DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye@comcast.net =
> If a new master cylinder is available, why bother with trying to =
rebuild an old one? I know that a rebuild kit is just a few dollars, but =
sending it off to have it rebuilt adds a lot to the cost. I have never =
rebuilt a master that was available new. Time is money and bent panels =
and paint repair are too, beside being dangerous. I learned very early =
in my mechanic learning to renew the brake fluid at least on an annual =
basis. This saves components from failure and adds long life to them. =
Wilwood and others make excellent replacement masters for the TR3 and =
they are at the most $80 new. At this cost, it does not make sense to =
rebuild one. I understand the TR6 has a different style master and may =
be more costly.=20
> Good luck for good brakes.=20
> Dave H.
>> On May 17, 2020 at 6:44 AM Robert Rochlin <rrochlin@comcast.net =
>>=20
>> Hi Richard,
>> I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a =
complete rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6. As I =
recall it worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out =
of the garage and the brakes totally failed. The TR6 rolled int my P/U =
truck dented the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very =
expensive afternoon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time =
to kill while the body shop fixed the TR6. They rebuilt the m/c again =
gratis and I reinstalled it. After about 8 months the m/c started to =
fail again, but slowly=E2=80=A6 I replaced it with a new Girling and it =
has gone several seasons working fine but now I=E2=80=99m getting the =
slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am going to replace the =
seals myself.
>> Although I=E2=80=99ve had good luck with several rebuilt components =
including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, I=E2=80=99ll =
never send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again.
>> Best,
>> Bob=20
>>=20
>>> On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay < =
>>>=20
>>> Hello Bob, et al.,
>>>=20
>>> Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing the =
stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to =
venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' seem =
to think an All Clear has been sounded and they're back face to face. I =
wish them luck.
>>>=20
>>> I have had two, fresh from the box, M/Cs fail then a third, =
working fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor =
since they are always quite willing to make things right, but their name =
does grow on the 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder and why =
I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail?
>>> In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake =
circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the rear =
brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid =
through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still works =
great today!
>>>=20
>>> Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in =
China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How did =
your M/C "fail catastrophically?"
>>>=20
>>> -rick
>>>=20
>>> On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack < =
>>> I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of =
quarantine. It down=E2=80=99t look like here in Massachusetts the stay =
at home order will be completely lifted for several of more weeks, but =
some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen.=20
>>> I=E2=80=99ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. =
In the past I=E2=80=99ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable =
rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after =
reinstallation. I=E2=80=99m figuring that I can improve on that record. =
When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process =
the article recommended red grease. I don=E2=80=99t have any, but I do =
have Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red brake grease =
can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i =
bite the bullet and get the red brake grease. About the only red grease =
I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 =
shipping.=20
>>> Any advice would be appreciated.=20
>>> Best,=20
>>> Bob=20
>>> =E2=80=9972 TR6=20
>>> _______________________________________________=20
>>> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/> http://www.team.net/donate.html =
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>=20
>>> Suggested annual donation $12.96=20
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>=20=
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums <http://www.team.net/forums>=20
>>>=20
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<http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack>=20
>>>=20
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay@gmail.com =
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay@gmail.com>=20=
>>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
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>> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
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> =20
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D""><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" =
style=3D"white-space:pre"> </span>Thanks for all the informed =
replies. I very much appreciate the advice. I did source hydraulic =
assembly grease form British Parts Northwest and will attempt to rebuild =
the master, and if that fails to repair the problem, I=E2=80=99ll source =
a new one. This is kind of one of those =E2=80=9CThe journey is =
more important the destination=E2=80=9D projects while I=E2=80=99m =
sticking around the house<div class=3D""><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" =
style=3D"white-space:pre"> </span>The master cylinder that I had =
totally fail had been re-sleeved as part of the original rebuild =
process. We are fortunate to have an array of options in repairing =
our old Triumph cars. In watching automobile restoration shows, Im =
amazed at the lengths and expense that restorers have to go to get =
replacement parts. In most cases we are only a phone call (mouse =
click) away from a part.</div><div class=3D""><span =
class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre"> </span>After the =
m/c rebuild is finished I'll have caught up with the necessary =
maintenance on my cars and will move on to unnecessary =
maintenance.</div><div class=3D""><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" =
style=3D"white-space:pre"> </span>Thanks again all for the help and =
suggestions. Stay safe.</div><div class=3D""><span =
class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre"> =
</span>Best,</div><div class=3D""><span class=3D"Apple-tab-span" =
style=3D"white-space:pre"> </span>Bob <br class=3D""><div><span =
class=3D"Apple-tab-span" style=3D"white-space:pre"> </span>=E2=80=9972=
Tr6</div><div><br class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div =
class=3D"">On May 17, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Don Hiscock <<a =
href=3D"mailto:don.hiscock@gmail.com"; =
class=3D"">don.hiscock@gmail.com</a>> wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><div dir=3D"ltr" =
class=3D"">Why bother to rebuild an old one when new ones are =
available? I like the finish on the original Girling master =
cylinders, and I trust a brass-sleeved original more than a modern =
Chinese knockoff. The price for something I'll likely do once in =
my life isn't a big consideration. That my car still has the =
master cylinders it was build with makes me happy.<div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">But Standard-Triumph always =
appealed to "frugal" owners, so I get that a simple drop-in =
chinesium replica will be attractive to many owners.</div></div><br =
class=3D""><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" =
class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 11:46 AM DAVE HOGYE <<a =
href=3D"mailto:dlhogye@comcast.net"; class=3D"">dlhogye@comcast.net</a>>=
wrote:<br class=3D""></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" =
style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid =
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><u class=3D""></u>
=20
=20
=20
<div class=3D"">
<div =
style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:rgb(5=
1,51,51)" class=3D"">
If a new master cylinder is available, why bother with trying to =
rebuild an old one? I know that a rebuild kit is just a few dollars, but =
sending it off to have it rebuilt adds a lot to the cost. I have =
never rebuilt a master that was available new. Time is money and =
bent panels and paint repair are too, beside being dangerous. I =
learned very early in my mechanic learning to renew the brake fluid at =
least on an annual basis. This saves components from failure and =
adds long life to them. Wilwood and others make excellent =
replacement masters for the TR3 and they are at the most $80 new. =
At this cost, it does not make sense to rebuild one. I understand =
the TR6 has a different style master and may be more costly. =20
</div>
<div =
style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:rgb(5=
1,51,51)" class=3D"">
Good luck for good brakes.
</div>
<div =
style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:rgb(5=
1,51,51)" class=3D"">
Dave H.
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D"">
On May 17, 2020 at 6:44 AM Robert Rochlin <<a =
href=3D"mailto:rrochlin@comcast.net"; target=3D"_blank" =
class=3D"">rrochlin@comcast.net</a>> wrote:=20
<br class=3D"">=20
<br class=3D""> Hi Richard,
<div class=3D"">
I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a =
complete rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6. As =
I recall it worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling =
out of the garage and the brakes totally failed. The TR6 rolled =
int my P/U truck dented the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 =
hood. A very expensive afternoon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder =
as I had time to kill while the body shop fixed the TR6. They =
rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I reinstalled it. After about 8 =
months the m/c started to fail again, but slowly=E2=80=A6 I replaced it =
with a new Girling and it has gone several seasons working fine but now =
I=E2=80=99m getting the slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I =
am going to replace the seals myself.
</div>
<div class=3D"">
Although I=E2=80=99ve had good luck with several rebuilt =
components including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, =
I=E2=80=99ll never send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again.
</div>
<div class=3D"">
Best,
</div>
<div class=3D"">
Bob=20
<br class=3D"">
<div class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
<blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D"">
<div class=3D"">
On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay <=20
<a href=3D"mailto:richardolindsay@gmail.com"; target=3D"_blank" =
class=3D"">richardolindsay@gmail.com</a>> wrote:
</div>
<br class=3D"">
<div class=3D"">
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">
<div class=3D"">
Hello Bob,=20
<em class=3D"">et al.</em>,
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">
Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are =
relaxing the stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are =
beginning to venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The =
'younglings' seem to think an=20
<em class=3D"">All Clear</em> has been sounded and they're =
back face to face. I wish them luck.
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">
I have had two, fresh from the box, M/Cs =
fail then a third, working fine. I don't wish to directly name and =
disparage the vendor since they are always quite willing to make things =
right, but their name does grow on the 'north side of the tree'. The =
question I ponder and why I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs =
fail?
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">
In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, =
the front brake circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the =
booster) but the rear brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit =
would flow no fluid through either circuit! The third M/C worked =
perfectly and still works great today!
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">
Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt =
cylinders? Someone in China just make mistakes? Did I do something =
wrong? Thus I ask: How did your M/C "fail catastrophically?"
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
</div>-rick
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"">
On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack <=20=
<a href=3D"mailto:6pack@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank" =
class=3D"">6pack@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:=20
<br class=3D"">
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"">
I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this =
time of quarantine. It down=E2=80=99t look like here in =
Massachusetts the stay at home order will be completely lifted for =
several of more weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be =
allowed to reopen.=20
<br class=3D""> I=E2=80=99ve had =
a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past I=E2=80=99ve sent =
m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them =
catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation. I=E2=80=99m =
figuring that I can improve on that record. When I went to the =
Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the article =
recommended red grease. I don=E2=80=99t have any, but I do have =
Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red brake grease =
can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i =
bite the bullet and get the red brake grease. About the only red =
grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus =
$8.00 shipping.=20
<br class=3D""> Any advice would =
be appreciated.=20
<br class=3D""> Best,=20
<br class=3D""> Bob=20
<br class=3D""> =E2=80=9972 TR6=20=
<br class=3D""> =
_______________________________________________=20
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