Hi Espen,
I have experienced similar problems two times.
First case was in a 1971Ford Capri that had just had a replacement engine.
It was caused by a non working vacuum advance, a result of the distributor
base plate having rusted. Cured by the garage that stripped the
distributor right down to clean it.
Second time was in a 1978 Holden Torana in which the spark plug leads had
built up too much resistance, and would not transmit the spark, cured by new
leads.
hope this helps and good luck
Vic
----- Original Message -----
From: "ESPEN HOLM" <e_holm@c2i.net>
To: <alpines@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2002 6:28 AM
Subject: Engine problems
> What happends if the valve gap is too tight?
> I just changed the engine to a rebuilt one incl the rebuilt top on my SV
> (1725cc), however I can't get it run properly. At idling speed everything
> seems fine, but as soon as I start driving it seems pulling the
accellerator
> pedal it seems like the engine is choked in some way and there is really
no
> spirit. And after another few minutes, especially when climbing hills the
car
> seems to choke even more, and then then one or two cylindars does not seem
to
> work and everything is really slow and sounds bad. I just have to stop for
a
> few minutes then I can go on again for another few - quite annoying! Could
> this be the valve gaps are too tight? I know they should be 0,35 and 0,30
mm,
> however I haven't been able to chech that properly. I also wonder if it
could
> be something with the ignition things, I have just tuned that by hand eg.
no
> stroboscope or anything.
> Temperature seems to be allright, oil pressure also.
> Or what else could this be?
> Hope there is some good advice out there!
>
> Espen (Norway)
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