In a message dated 11/13/01 9:48:24 AM Eastern Standard Time, gschiro@lni.net
writes:
> I suppose the heat and bend idea might work as that is probably how the curl
> happened in the first place when heating released some inherent stresses in
> the material. Such stresses may be due to how the acrylic was formed into
> the panel shape or it may be due to how the resin cured. Unfortunately,
the
> curl will come back unless the stresses are removed or compensated.
>
> As far as compensation goes, you might be able to keep the alignment by
> attaching a metal plate to the underside if that is possible.
>
> To remove the stresses one approach, which I haven't tried, is to cut a
> series of parallel slots on the underside of the curl that penetrate no
more
> than half way through the material. This may releave the stresses and
> permit the curl to be re-aligned. The position can then be fixed with
> either a plate or perhaps epoxy.
>
> George Schiro
>
That might be an interesting experiment, lets start with your... just kidding
;-) Maybe something to try with a discarded piece of junk acrylic but not if
it is at all usable.
The acrylic is bonded to the fibreglass, but is the stronger of the two
materials and when the acrylic curls up it pulls the fibreglass along. If
you cut from the bottom you will be cutting the fibreglass which is resisting
the acrylic. It seems to me that would make things worse if it did not just
break outright. The acrylic is very strong and has a tendency to flatten
itself out. That is why the rear hatches flatten in spite of the metal bar
inside and have to be periodically recurved. Maybe someone can comment on
his experience with the plates under the headlight covers
George Curley #220, 670
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