> Gerry said :
>
> The cold psi was about 60, warm about 30 and idle was just above 10 on the
> guage. All i did to the engine was change the crankshaft bearings,
> ie main and rod, now the cold ps1 is 80, warm is 70 and idle is
> about 55. Even if I set the idle way low (about 500 rpm), the oil
> press will not drop beloe 55 psi.
Well, when I first bought the Clubman, it had cold idle of about
70psi, and hot idle of about 40. At driving speeds it would go to
90.
When I stripped it down the other day, the last pressure readings I
recall were 35 cold idle, absolute max of 75 driving and a hot idle
that barely registered (and this is a manual gauge). I put a container
of that oil treatment (similar to STP I s'pose) and the readings
jumped to 50 cold idle, 75-90 driving and 25 hot idle. But like yours,
when I stripped it every bearing shell showed some copper. In fact
the wear marks were technically interesting - it was very easy to
tell what bearings were getting the loads, and where.
The crank ended up needing polishing only (for which I am grateful).
> When i removed the old shells, all had the copper showing through.
What condition was your crank in?
and then Andrew Green says :
> Some general observations on this oil pressure thread:
> Gauges:
A story I read about the electrical gauges on Jags - It seems this
journalist chappie was using the magazine's fleet Mk2 - which had a
history of one of the terminals on the back of the oil pressure
gauge coming undone. There he was drinving across Salisbury Plain
and the gauge zeroed. So he though "bugger that, I'll fix it at the
next stop" or thoughts to that effect. Yes, you guessed it - a very
short time later - BANG! and he'd just about cut the engine in half.
> Oil Pumps: These fail progressively, not abruptly with a *bang*. If they did,
Hmmm. Maybe I should replace that as well.
If you had really grungy oil, how much damage could it do to the pump?
(The oil in the sump looked more like molasses).
Clubman GT update:
Well, picked up the bits from the engineers on Friday -
Rebored block, forged Mahle pistons fitted to conrods, block
cleaned, replugged and painted. They had to 'close and rehone'
the big ends of the rods, seemed there was .002 ovality - which
couldn't have helped the oil pressure either.
Over the weekend I had to do some mundane things, like move large
parts of my posessions (including several 3' stacks of English
car magazines), but still managed to paint the interior of the
bodyshell, clean and paint the steering column, handbrake,
clutch M/C, replace all the brake bits on the new subframe.
The car has gone as far as it will go - it now starts going back
together!!
Cooper update;
Either the clutch M/C needs rebuilding/bleeding, or my gear
selection mechanism is going west. Either way, it is generally
more reliable to change gear without the clutch.
regards,
--
thos cohen 'lair' - vulgar young man |Softway Pty Ltd
"It's not so bad to be a lair but a conniving |ACSnet: thos@softway.oz
egomaniac is not really that socially accept- |UUCP: ...!uunet!softway.oz!thos
able." SMH, 2 Nov 92, P. Keating vs J. Hewson|Internet: thos@softway.oz.au
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