Jeff M. Shoemaker writes:
> Hello ALL.
> I am having more clutch problems and could use any advise on same.
> Below is a synopsis of the history (as I know it). Comments welcome.
> symptom fix
> ============================= ======================================
> clutch was slipping. 100k. replaced clutch, pressure plate and throw-out,
> sleeve, pilot, shift fork, fork cross-shaft
> (and re-bushed bell housing). Note : Laycock.
I used a borg & beck setup. Does anyone know the difference between
the two clutch setups? Is the Laycock clutch available anymore?
> noisy clutch at ~105k replaced fatigued throw-out bearing.
> clutch 'catches' and causes simple clutch return spring outside of bell.
> driver to 'pop' the clutch
I added a simple return spring setup, just like you describe!
However, I removed this setup since it pushed the slave piston too far
back and therefore I didn't have enough travel to fully disengage the
clutch. Basically it meant that I had to pump the clutch twice to get
a full disengage. Perhaps this might be part of your new problem.
> NOW: clutch noise returned and None yet. Bearing is again bad. Pressure plate
> shifting became difficult until has circular groove worn (slightly oblong)
> clutch was mostly inoperative. it where the throw-out bearing touched.
> 110k miles. (No, I did not ride the clutch).
They always do this. That is because the bearing is constantly
against the pressure plate on the TR6. As you know this means that we
get to replace release bearings often. Is the spring you added strong
enough to keep the bearing from spinning on the plate?
> Questions :
> 1. ?
> 2. Any distinct differences between 74 and 75 bell/tranny ?
> 3. How much should T.O. bearing travel before touching the pressure
> plate? After contact ,how much further does it push into the
> the pressure plate ?
none, and not much, I'd say an inch at most.
This might not apply to your problem, but others may be interested:
Another problem with TR6 clutch travel is the shift fork and cross
shaft. The problem is that the pin holding this fork breaks and this
makes the geometry of the fork in relation to the slave cylinder push
rod incorrect. You might have this problem as well. I thought I
solved this problem on my old trans by installing a new hardened pin
from moss. When I removed my trashed trans, I removed that pin to put
it in the new trans, but it was broken! I didn't have a new pin for
my new OD trans, not that it mattered because it would break again
anyway. So I put the broken pin in the shaft, and then drilled a
19/64" hole through the other side of the fork/shaft. I then reamed
this just a bit with the spinning 19/64" drill bit to slightly widen
the hole to just under 5/16". Next, I used a grade 8
bolt/lockwasher/nut (& locktight) to connect the two pieces. My
clutch feels better than it ever has before. Mainly because I have
removed the slop from the cross-shaft and fork joint completely. I
also don't have to worry about removing a broken pin, because the pin
I installed is already broken! If the 5/16" bolt breaks then I still
have the broken pin installed as a backup. Anyway, I'm sure I'll be
cursing this setup when I try to remove this press fit 5/16" bolt, but
it sure feels good today!
BTW, I've installed the OD trans, and have driving it around the
block. It sure is noisy without a trans cover on there. I haven't
hooked all the overdrive wires up yet, as I haven't be able to figure
where they all go! Anywho, I'll post more as I begin to overload my
electrical system. :-)
Cheers, (& let us know what you find out Jeff)