gibbons@northpole.med.uvm.edu writes:
>>Plastic pallets sold for bondo mixing are nice; at the rubbery stage the
>bondo
>>can be flexed off. Remaining material can be removed with lacquer thinner.
>>When the surface of the pallet gets hard to clean, break out a new one.
>One alternative to the plastic palette is to use a piece of masonite
>covered by by a ziplock or other freezer-type bag. Let me explain.
First a great bondo article by Gibbons. As a long time bondo user,
I agree 100%. I use a piece of scrap glass for my bondo mixing board (wrap
edges with tape). When I'm finished, I clean it with one of these scrappers
that uses a single edge razor blade.
Although it's been said before, NEVER use bondo if you have to exceed 1/8"
depth or to replace missing surface (hole) greater than 1/8". Use fiber glass
to fix small holes (up to 1" or so), weld (or pop rivet if absolutlely
necessary) in steel for big holes. Then finish with bondo.
Thin coats of bondo will flex but thick layers won't. Also, bondo has no
strength. So, if the patched area flexes or provides support (ie needs
strength), avoid using bondo.
The next level up in patching sophisication is glass and resin. This stuff
is not much more difficult to work with than bondo, is readily available at
larger paint stores or boat supply houses and avoids some of the bondo
shortcomings.
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