Well I've got a problem. About 2 years ago I converted my head over to
unleaded fuel using the parts from Vic. Brit. on my 1968 MGB. I had
the local machine shop put in hardened valve seats, bronze guides, and new
valves.
Late last fall I had a problem with a "nice" clacking sound up front, and it
turned out one of the valves had siezed in the guide and the guide had then
dropped down into the cylinder (not all the way), which ment the piston kept
slapping the top of the guide. (Note this was much colder weather than I
normally run my car)
I had the guide replaced, and the machine shop claimed it happened because
my engine was carboning up. (I didn't buy this, neither did a mechanic friend
of mine). So the head went back on the engine.
So today it's fairly cold but I was going to lend my other car to my mother
for the day so I start up the B and take off. About 10 feet down the road I
say this isn't right and limp home. I say to myself I know what this is, and
grab my tools and pull off the valve cover and I was right a stuck valve.
(Call to mum, Sorry I have to go to work you can't have my car :(). The car
has less than 1000 miles on it since the last valve job (above),
so carbon is not
the problem (not that I thought that it was). Any way the car was running
super lean as the su needles I put in my carbs from the moss rebuild kit were
not the FX needles they were supposed to be (stupid me I should have checked
them but I just put them in, and just found out when my mechanic friend was
trying to tune up my car, since it seem to lose power in the midrange. Replace
with old needles, and order new (Any one know what a 468 needle is, we couldn't
even find them in the SU catalog as a listed needle)).
So help, any ideas what can be causing this? My friend advises going back to
cast guides.
Any one want an MGB cheap!, Oh well such is life
Please mail any suggestions, comments to
garyb@iotek.ns.ca
Thanks Gary Burrell
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