In message <01HHX5JIEBPG8WWEK9@wmich.edu> writes:
> So far I have tried engine cleaner and a heat gun with a wooden stick. Has
> anyone tried kerosene? Or is there an quick and easy way to remove really
> thick layers of rust coating? IT'S EVERYWHERE! I'm hoping to repaint most
> of the engine bay, trunk and exterior of my Spit but this STUFF is really
> slowing down the process.
> Margaret Watson '78 Spit
I sympathize with your plight. My TR3 was the second rustyist one I have ever
The bad news is that there is no magic rust bullet, and every bit you leave on
will continue to destroy the car over time. With the right tools, you can strip
it as quickly as someone you would pay $45+ an hour. Which is not to say fast
but you will save LOTs of money.
Chemical: You can have parts dipped professionally. This stuff needs to
neutralized after the dip. Any of the dip left in seams afterwards will cause
the car to rust quickly. Or you can use commercial "paint on, scrape off"
striper. I have never had much luck with that stuff.
There is this stuff advertised to chemically treat rust to become inert.
Studies have shown that this stuff does not penetrate. If you have a deep pit
of rust, the top will be converted leaving "live" rust underneath to slowly
continue the oxidation process. You want to clean out the pits as best as
possible before using this stuff. If you have rust through, have it welded
1. Sand blasting. It can be effective but you need to be very careful about
its use. It can be safely used in thick steel parts, on sheet metal only near
edges, corners, and any reinforced spots. Stay away from wide open sheet metal
expanses. It can and often does cause the metal to distort if there is no
reinforcement. Use 30 grit sand.
2. High speed sandpaper flapper. These are little cylinders you can purchase
that have small strips of sand paper radiating out from it, and a metal shaft.
These are generally rated for 25000 RPM. The work well when attached to a high
speed turning tool.
3. 3M pad. 3M has a black circular pad with a metal shaft at the center. The
material is similar to scrub pads but courser. It is designed to be attached to
a hand drill. It also works well, as long as you use it on edges so that the
part of the wheel touching the metal is turning off an edge and not into it. If
you place it so that it turns onto an edge it will disintegrate quickly.
4. Wire brush. OK for cleaning off gross dirt, grease, or rust flakes, but a
waste of time for doing real derusting.
If, like me, you live in an area that has high humidity, you should prime and
seal over the area that you de-rusted at the end of the day to keep the rust
from coming back overnight.
Treat cleaned bare metal with phosphoric acid (where rubber gloves) before
- SAFETY - Safety - Safety -
Always wear a good proper fitting respirator approved for what you are doing.
The felt white ones are not good for anything but pollen and household dust.
Remember, it is better to be uncomfortable in a respirator than too ill to drive
Take care, and remember with persistence and a lot of lost weekends, it is
possible to come out the other end of the derusting drudge...I did.
TeriAnn Wakeman Large format photographers look at the world
firstname.lastname@example.org upside down and backwards
408-974-2344 TR3A - TS75519L,
MGBGT - GHD4U149572G, Land Rover 109 - 164000561