The Once & Future TR3 (TS75519L) is finally back from the bodyshop...again.
This time the doors actually fit as do the front wings
(for those who missed the proceeding episodes... I had a body shop replace the
floors, inner & outer sills. The door opening was about 1/4 inch too short and
the outer sills were about 1/4 inch too forward interfering with the front
wings..but otherwise the work was first rate.)
The body shop paid to have the 3 moved between my house & their shop (40 mi each
way) and fixed the problem at no cost to me other than time lost.
The engine is ready to be mated to the transmission and dropped into the car.
Everything that can be installed in the engine bay easier with the engine out
has been installed.
I found a source for 1/8 inch stamps and stamped my new commision plate.
Unfortunatly, while the car was gone I got boared and got out the polishing
tools. First I cleaned up the old finned aluminum valve cover, then I started
looking around. Now the aluminium water pump pulley, both halves of the
thermostat housing, the water heater valve, and intake manifolds (for DCOEs) are
all polished. I blew my chances in a concourse class big time. But at least it
will look original as long as you don't pop the bonnet. Well I already blew
that when I polished the new stainless steel hydrolic lines instead of painting
them like the factory did.
I think I have decided not to install the interior untill after the outside of
the car has been painted (The interior, engine bay, boot & fuel tank area have
already been restored to its original factory signal red colour). There is less
chance of overspray damaging the new interior if its safely at home.
New U joints just went onto the drive shaft, so its ready to go. So the drive
train will go in as soon as I find a weekend that it is not raining. It will be
followed by the radiator, front valance and bonnet. That will get the front
valance off the wall inside the house and the other body parts out from behind
the furniture. Finally, except for the interior parts, my house will start to
look normalish.
I suppose this is a good time to install the hard top mounting kit. It seems to
make sense to get the fitting done before I have fresh paint to scratch. I have
decided to paint the hard top sebring white. A sebring white hard top was a
dealer option for a signal red TR3A in '61 and my side curtains (original with
the car) are white. I have been thinking about a white hood (soft top) too but
I'm not sure I could keep it clean.
I'm still trying to free up my old engine water drain tap. It was frozen shut.
I ordered another one way back when from ether Moss or The Roadster Factory.
When I finally went to install it I discovered that it had the wrong threads.
The new replacement tap had tapered pipe threads. My old one & the block do not
have tapered pipe threads. If I know who I purchased the new one from I would
give them a piece of my mind for blowing the reproduction so badly. The old tap
is going to spend some time in a bucket of carb cleaner to see if I can get the
insides ungummed enough to come appart.
I'm also thinking of tyres with a wide white sidewall. I think they would set
off a signal red TR3, with white top, and chrome 60 spoke wheels.
I'm also strongly considering getting original style yellow with black lettering
license plates for the 3. California lets you use them provided they are in
very good shape and have the original year sticker. They provide a small plate
that fits on one corner of the old style plate that holds the new registration
stickers.
Of course now if I got wide white sidewalls and original style plates, I would
have to dig up red plastic horn rimmed glasses, red lipstick & nail polish, a
nice silk scarf and a fuzzy chasmire sweater to go with the car. I get into
trouble when I get boared.
Now if it would only stop raining on weekends so I can get the engine in. I
envy people who have garages and pavement/concrete. I calculate that if I had a
garage, the rebuild would take at least 50% less time. Of couse, if I didn't
mind laying down in the mud to work under the car, I could be farther ahead too.
Of course that 9 months I spent without a job didn't help since I couldn't
afford to have the body work bone. And having the body shop take forever to get
the body work done.. each time... didn't help. In two weeks it will be five
years since I last drove the TR3 and started taking her appart. It was right
after participating in the '89 Los Gatos Christmas parade with the Triumph
Travelers Sports Car Club.
I had hoped to get her on the road last summer, but the bodywork rework and the
delays in getting the engine finshed killed that one. I had NO idea that crank
nitriding took so long. Or for that matter that Greg Solo took so long. Well
maybe by late spring '95. A lot depends upon how long it takes me to save up
for the exterior painting..and a new header..and a new seat frame...and trying
to decide where to mount the transmission oil temp guage that came with the
aluminum oil pans. The factory put them over by the OD switch where the heater
switch is. I am having a hard time with the thought of punching a large hole in
my newly refinished instrument panel. I think I may have a reproduction of the
original radio counsul made up (I have pictures & dimensions from one on a car
that lives in Canada). Instead of a radio, I could mount the guage, and switches
for the Lucas Fog lamps and a manual switch for the electric fan.
Now about getting a pair of perscription red plastic sun glasses & finding the
right cashmere sweater.....
The once & future TR3A WILL roar back to life!
TeriAnn Wakeman Large format photographers look at the world
twakeman@apple.com upside down and backwards
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