I got a non oem starter at a starter shop in Denton,
TX. It fit perfectly and works well. I don't know what
it was originally designed for but it definately isn't a
roadster starter. It was $60 rebuilt and they needed my
old one for a core. They couldn't bench test my old one
because the teeth didn't match properly to thier dyno so
they used the 2x4 trick. They said it cranked slowly
which I already knew. The starter came from a big
starter rebuild shop in Dallas. I can get more
information for anyone that might be interested.
NT
> > I am reassembling a project from boxes. I have a starter that I plan to use
> > in 68 2000. Is there an easy way to bench test the starter to see if it is
> > any good??
>
> Bob,
>
> I'd confirm the starter at least spins!
>
> While wearing boots, I will step down on the starter holding
> it against the garage floor. Battery cable hooked up from the
> mounting ear to "-" side of the battery. Positive cable hooked
> up to were the power is normally supplied.
>
> With a "remote starter" between the "+" terminal and 1/4" spade
> connection on the stator solenoid, depress the remote starter
> button. You should see the pinion gear slide forward, and hear
> the starter "whirrrrlllll". Don't let the starter run more than
> a few seconds in this unloaded condition.
>
> Ma Roadster (Suze), who hasn't been on this list in years, would
> clamp the starter down on her bench, and lift a long piece of
> 2x4 board into the starter teeth. This was the "load test" she
> did. Yes, wood splinters every where!
>
> When the starter brushes get towards the end of their life
> you'll discover a slow cranking starter. There are four brushes.
> Two positive, two negative. Typically one will fail first, so
> rather than having TWO sets of windings to spin the motor,
> you only have ONE set of windings energized. Slow spin, but
> sometimes a jumped battery seems to start it right up. Battery
> is fine, just the jump helped raise the voltage momentarily!
>
> With the starter out, I will remove the back cover, and inspect
> the brushes. Typically I can buy four brushes from a rebuild
> place for $4 total. Cheap insurance to replace them, and inspect
> everything else. Oh, Nissan wants something like $14 each for
> brushes, OUCH!
>
> Also while everything is out, check the bolt threads into the
> bell housing. It is easy to strip the aluminum threads out, and
> usually I'll install stainless steel inserts while I have the
> starter out. Little things that make life easier.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Tom Walter
> Austin, TX
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