Your question didn't come through. But I'll try to guess.
Starter Removal 101
1. Disconnect battery - terminal (don't skip this!)
2. lift driver side front and place on stand.
3. remove driver's side front wheel
Reach in between frame and body in wheel well and
loosen battery terminal on starter (could be
1/2'', 12 or 13mm) and remove all contacts.
4. Remove lower starter bolt (9/16'' or 14mm) using
a wrench here can be slow. I like to come at it
with a socket on a wiggle extension, long enough
to clear the starter body. On cars with headers
installed, I've used a long extension from in front
of and around the back of the headers.
5. Remove ground strap. didn't see one? well we'll make
one. I've learned the hard way that this one device
is crucial to starter life. You need 10'' of 8 gauge
stranded copper wire, one crimp-on for a 3/8ths bolt,
another for a 1/4 bolt, a 1/4 x 3/4 SAE fine bolt,
split lock washer and flat. Remove the insulation off
of the crimp-ons and crimp and solder them on.
6. Remove top bolt. Here's where the fun begins. On the
2L, there's not a lot of space behind the rear carb
to get at this bolt. It can be done, but I resort to
removing the carbs any way. On the 1600, it's a little
easier, with a stress on the word "little".
7. Remove the starter. With the nose pointed out the
wheel well and the solenoid forward, the starter WILL
fit through the gap between the frame and body. I have
done this on all models. It does LOOK like it will fit,
you may not believe it will fit, But, with a little
wiggling, that starter WILL be out of the car and in
Any competent auto electric shop can easily rebuild your starter. don't let
anybody tell you the parts aren't available. the only unique part of your
starter is the nose and you have that. The motor and solenoid has been used
by Nissan and others for years. the all l motor cars used this motor and
solenoid the only difference is the nose piece.
Still need a starter? I've got three!
70 SRL 31113136