Here's another reason why getting more oil to the Evil-L is not a solution
to the problem. Even if you do that, and/or strengthen the Evil-L you still
have a loose chain that will be re-creating the damage.
And even if you do snap off the Evil-L with a vise-grips, you should still
fix the loose chain problem as soon as possible. Because a loose chain will
also slap at the mounting bolts for the upper chain guide. If those bolts
go, then you're in for a mess of trouble with your engine.
Fred - So.SF
_______________________ Reply Separator ___________________________
Subject: The "Oiled L"? Great idea!
Author: Alex Avery <email@example.com>
Date: 5/16/2001 3:19 PM
That is a great idea. If someone does this, take some digi-pics and get
'em on the list! I'm not sure where or how to set up such an oiler.
At 11:08 AM 5/16/01 -0700, Patrick P. Castronovo wrote:
>It is obvious to me that that part does not hav oil running to it. I wonder
>if fashioning a tube from the oiler to that bracket where the chain rides,
>would lube it sufficently that this would help to eliminate the problem.
>From: Russell Southwell <firstname.lastname@example.org>
>To: Gordon Glasgow <email@example.com>
>Cc: firstname.lastname@example.org <email@example.com>
>Date: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 8:12 AM
>Subject: Re: The "Evil L" and it's removal...
>>Gordon, after looking at your excelent pictures of the evil L , I,m
>wonering if one
>>can,t weld the damage ( TIG) and reshape it? or is it a hardened piece, or
>>Russ Southwell 70 1600, 4 Dead 2L
>>Gordon Glasgow wrote:
>>> I can't think of any way to cut it off that won't introduce a lot of
>>> shavings into the engine. Why not just shim the tensioner and take the
>>> of the chain? If the timing chains are new and the head hasn't been cut a
>>> it should be easy.
>>> Your timing will not be affected by that chain. The timing is controlled
>>> lower chain (from the crank to the jackshaft).
>>> To Chris: Yes, the "Evil L" is that upper bracket. And here's how bad
>>> Gordon Glasgow
>>> Renton, WA
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: firstname.lastname@example.org
>>> [mailto:email@example.com]On Behalf Of Ken Pearce
>>> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 11:13 PM
>>> To: firstname.lastname@example.org
>>> Subject: The "Evil L" and it's removal...
>>> Questions questions questions...
>>> 1.) I want to remove the "Evil L" before my timing chain does the job
>>> me. I took off the valve cover today to inspect it, and while the
>>> worn into the bracket are only about a 1/16" deep, I don't like the idea
>>> metal shavings in the engine. All the timing components are almost new,
>>> just need to get cam tower shims when I have the $$$...
>>> What's the best way to remove the piece of the bracket? I would rather
>>> remove the cam sprocket if I don't absolutely have to. If I have to cut
>>> with a hacksaw, I would have to stuff clean rags down the front of the
>>> engine to prevent any shavings from falling down there. Maybe a magnet
>>> placed directly below the sawing would help? Will the L just break off
>>> put some vice-grips on it and start bending? It doesn't look like I can
>>> a dremel in there. :(
>>> 2.) Assuming I get the L removed, is my engine timing affected that much
>>> the chain being a little loose at low rpm? I guess I could check it with
>>> timing light at various rpm levels...
>>> 3.) I bought one of those really cool stainless steel SU carb
>>> last year at Shasta but still haven't installed it. Has anyone installed
>>> one of these without pulling the carbs? Every way I try to slide the
>>> heatshield in there is blocked by something of other...
>>> I did a little arc welding today with the throttle cable and the positive
>>> battery terminal. Very exciting! Of all the places that cable could
>>> landed, it had to be on the terminal! Murphy's way of reminding me to be
>>> more careful!
>>> Thanks in advance,
>>> Ken Pearce, 68-2000
>>> Bellingham, WA