I have to admit that I screwed up while preparing the 5 speed for my car. I
didn't catch it until I assembled the tranny to the engine and what I
discovered was that I used a 4 speed throwout bearing sleeve on a 5 speed
tranny. The sleeves are different and one won't work with the other.
Fortunately I did catch it before I installed the motor in the car but it
woulda been horrible.
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerry gallagher" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
To: "Charlie" <email@example.com>; "Datsun Roadster Mailing List"
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 12:00 AM
Subject: RE: 1500 Clutch Problem
> Charlie, List
> Actually there is another possibility -- unfortunately I know of this from
> personal experience. On a '69 2000 and I assume other roadsters it is
> possible to install the clutch throwout fork incorrectly so that it is not
> positioned on the throwout bearing sleeve correctly. This results in a
> clutch that almost disengages -- but not quite. If this has happened
> wait too long to fix as it contributes to extreme wear on the "fingers" of
> the clutch pressure plate. I continued to drive my car with a misbehaving
> clutch for about 700 miles while trying to fix it by trying different
> hydraulic cylinders and even trying a longer clutch adjustment rod. The
> clutch "fingers" were almost worn through and I do not want to think of
> damage that could have occurred if I continued to drive.
> Good Luck,
> -----Original Message-----
> From: firstname.lastname@example.org
> [mailto:email@example.com]On Behalf Of Charlie
> Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2001 7:42 PM
> To: Datsun Roadster Mailing List
> Subject: 1500 Clutch Problem
> I just finished rebuilding the engine in my 64 1500. Unfortunately, my
> test drive has shown that there is a problem with the clutch. The tranny
> grinds in every gear including 1st. This is all from a stopped position in
> idle with the clutch all the way in. The front shaft still spins even when
> stopped with the clutch in. The slave travel is well within the .6 = .8
> tolerance. The hydraulics hold pressure and the pilot bushing is new and
> lubricated. You can slow the spin down by pulling the stick back toward
> gear and quickly pushing it into first. I think that this simply uses the
> 2nd gear synchro to slow the shaft down.
> When driving the car, I can ease it into gears by using the throttle to
> synchronize the gear speeds. Otherwise...ggggrrrrriiinnnndddd. :o(
> Putting the clutch in takes all power off the drive train but the clutch
> not separating completely from the plates. I think that the clutch plate
> either warped or that the rebuilder muffed it. Has anyone experienced this
> before. BTW, I did put a light coat of grease on the shaft to allow the
> clutch free play between the pressure plate and the flywheel. Does anyone
> think that this could be the problem. Someone suggested that I may have
> the thing in backwards. I may have but seriously doubt it. Oh well, better
> get ready to pull the engine again.
> To top it all off, the new rear main seal still drips oil in quantity. A
> mechanic friend of mine suggested that partially rotate the seal halves so
> that the cuts are offset from the joint where the cap joins the block.
> Anyone ever try that?
> Charlie Hubbard
> 1964 SPL310
> Flower Mound, Texas