Tom:
I'm glad you didn't dignify the referenced post with a reply. When I sent the
msg.,
I was "flailing around" not knowing what the problem *really* was, (...and I
didn't
recall having to remove the water pump for a head removal, but Ross's
description of
the "valve regrind kit" containing a water pump gasket, led me astray.
Thankfully, I
didn't remove it.)
Anyhow, the head is off. The good news is that my diagnosis was "dead on". #1
Cyl.
exhaust valve has a triangular hole at the edge, about 3/16" on the sides -
almost
equilateral. Very strange.
Now, I believe all I need to do, is get a replacement for that valve, and get
the
others reground. Then have the seats replaced with stellite vice bronze, have
the
stem seals replaced. Then back together.
Now, the strange thing is that there were two head gaskets installed! I had
brought
that new head as "carry on" luggage, back from Seattle after purchasing it from
Rallye. It WAS, in fact, new and in the box. Now, why would Wally 's Auto
Repair,
Pearl City, have used two head gaskets? Maybe they just had my old head shaved
and
kept the new one? Guess I need to have it mic'ed to find out. ...And should I
use 2
gaskets?
Curious.
Appreciate any reaction to the foregoing. (Hey, there's no one on this island
to
talk Roadsters with :-).
Dave
'68 1600
Kailua-Kona
"David R. Conrad" wrote:
> Hi Tom:
>
> Your advice to Deena was very timely since I am just now attempting the
> resurrection of my 1600, down for more than a month. Great to see you back
>on the
> list, by the way! Your advice has been so valuable in the past.
>
> I'm forwarding you several posts to friend, Ross, of Sports Imports of whom
>I've
> asked some advice about this job I've just embarked upon (started yesterday).
> Finally got that lower, rear nut off the manifolds and starting the removal of
> water pump. Yep, I guess the rather recently installed recored rad. has to
>come
> off again. (Been quite a while since I've had to pull the head :-).
>
> I had reconditioned the head of Roadster #1 in 1978 by a machine shop on the
> mainland, East Coast, and the current head (new at the time) on Roadster #2
>was
> installed by a garage on Oahu in 1985, because I was too busy with my job to
>be
> involved. Other than that, my knowledge of valve job requirements is very
> limited.
>
> Rather than reiterate all the info, I thought I'd just forward what I have
>sent to
> Ross. I would welcome any thoughts.
>
> Thanks
>
> Dave
> '68 1600
> Kailua-Kona
>
> Thomas Walter wrote:
>
> > Deena,
> >
> > Use the same intake & exhaust valves regardless of unleaded or
> > leaded fuel.
> >
> > Most machinist will know to replace the bronze exhaust valve seats
> > with a harder material, like Stellite. OEM, bronze, intake valve
> > seats are fine as they don't have to put up with the heat like
> > exhaust valve seats do.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Tom
> >
> > Deena Petrie wrote:
> >
> > > Hi list,
> > >
> > > Heres another question for you. Remember I'm still learning. Do you
>have to
> > > replace the valves to be able to run the unleaded fuel? If so what type
>of
> > > valve should we put in?
> > >
> > > Deena Petrie
> > > 1969 1600
> > > Westmont, IL
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