THIS SHOULD HAVE BEEN TO REMOVE THE DASH, not the windshield :)
[mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org]On Behalf Of Tom @
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2005 12:40 PM
To: stan k; email@example.com
Subject: RE: Dash removal
I wish I had documented this process when I did it 3 times over one winter a
couple of years ago. I got to the point where I could remove and install
the dash in a little over an hour. Removing the windshield does help, but
it is not necessary. The easiest way to remove the windshield is to remove
it intact with the rubber gasket still surrounding the glass and the molding
still in place as well.
To remove the windshield you will need a 7/16" offset box wrench to get at
the heads of the 6 or 7 bolts located at the base of the windshield. A
short handle 7/16" open end may help with some of the bolt heads. A 90
degree Phillips head screwdriver might be useful, but not easy to use here.
Start by removing all of the obvious panels and screws on the bottom of the
dash. You will also need to slide the vertical console out and remove it.
BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS. THEY ARE EXTREEMLY BRITTLE
AND COULD DISOLVE IN YOUR HANDS. I had to replace those connectors with
Molex connectors before I could reinstall the vertical console. I took that
opportunity to add alarm, stereo, and power antenna wiring to the harness
assembly at that time.
Next remove the handles for the air vents and the three screws used to
attach the heater controls to the dash. The heater controls stay with the
heater cables, which can be very easily rebuilt and replaced using
instructions on my TECH page if you have heater cables that won't allow the
internal wire to move. If you plan to replace these cables, do it BEFORE
you put the dash back on the car (second time I pulled the dash).
Remove the steering wheel and the U strap attaching the steering column
under the dash. Be sure to unplug the ignition switch connector and the
connectors for the wiper and headlights located under the dash.
Now you are ready to tackle those bolts under the windshield. The 7/16"
offset wrench may do all of the work for you. The only place I had any real
problems was around the inside bolt by the VIN tag. For some reason there
was a little less clearance than there was around the other bolts. BE SURE
TO KEEP THESE BOLTS IN A SAFE PLACE. They are pointed at the beginning of
the threads to assist in installing them during reassembly.
I never had the courage to disconnect the cable harness connectors inside of
the dash. They are the same hard, brittle, plastic you found behind the
vertical console and I just did not want to spend a couple of days
assembling new Molex connectors to replace them.
I would strongly suggest a thick pad between the dash and the hand brake
handle (keep it in the down position). You might consider removing the
shifter from the transmission if you don't want to just put the transmission
in reverse to provide as much clearance as possible. The pad prevents
possible damage to the glove box door. You could remove the door if you
want to protect it completely.
This is just the reverse of what you did to remove the dash. One trick I
finally learned was to use a stiff wire to align the nuts that receive the
bolts on the top of the dash. If they are not aligned to the center of
their mounting points you may have a rough time getting the bolts back in.
69 2000 - Mr. Hyde