After a lot of failures of the hub caused by the "KEY" actually rotating in the
groove, I was the first I think to widen the groove, then I made keys from tool
steel . These keys were in fact cutting tool blanks for a lathe. Never had
another failure.
Catpusher@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 6/8/99 1:46:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> elkhorn@megsinet.net writes:
>
> << EP TR-6 out on the track. After only 5 hot laps I came in with a
> clunking sound.
> What I found was both the rear axle flanges broken. I had taken the
> rear diff in for new seals & bearings and hate to think the local Ring
> &Pinion shop hadn't properly torqued the nuts. They both broke at the
> Key.... so Over torqued or Under torqued? Lets see new engine,trans,4.1:1on
> a Detroit Locker....Could be Just toooooo much right ? NNNNNNAAAAAAAAA.
> How many out there have suffered this fate?
> David Wingett
> >>
> I should refuse to help "EP" TR6s on a moral basis; but have you
> checked to see that the diff output shafts and hubs have the wide
> key set up introduced after the TR4A street cars broke the early
> parts?
>
> Did you lap the tapers? I Do this on the Rear Axles that I Build
> for customers. Torque, just a figure of speech?
>
> BTW I have all the factory tools, including the pinion
> depth gauge, for the TR2-6 Rear axles/ hubs, and have built a fair
> number of these units.
>
> Hardy
> Parked EP TR3
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