Tim, I had a similar situation. To get it apart, I took the right hand
side loose as much as possible. Then I took the left hand metal bearing
cover loose from the firewall (4 hex head screws). This allowed me to push
the shaft and bearing toward the right side of the car, exposing the nylon
bearing in the engine compartment. This works best with the engine and
gearbox out so you can stand where the engine used to be. I then took my
cutoff wheel and sliced through the nylon bearing, destroying it and
removing it from the shaft. The collar / sleeve is still on the shaft, but
it will go through the hole in the firewall, allowing you to remove the
pedal and shaft. With these removed, you can try to beat the shaft
straight enough to get the collar / sleeve off. I never succeeded at the
straightening / removing collar part (didn't get that far) - bought another
car instead. I'm a little nervous cutting the shaft apart and doing the
two piece thing, but it's probably just fine. I prefer the linkage over a
cable - I think it looks better and is less prone to failure. That is pure
opinion and is only based on failures caused by the ground strap breaking
(the throttle cable becomes the ground strap). I have seen the linkage
come loose too. Nascar uses a linkage. Formula cars use cables. Both
work fine.
- Tony Drews
'63 TR-4 #95
At 08:28 PM 11/29/2002, Timothy F. Murphy wrote:
>Friends,
> I am disassembling an early (1961) TR-4 (CT511L) prior to bead
>blasting the tub and frame before putting it back together to race. The
>car has been a race car for at least the last 20 or 30 years (as far as
>I know) but "needs work". The accelerator pedal and shaft is one piece
>and the shaft was bent (probably on some prior engine
>removal/installation). Therefore I cannot get the left hand bushing off
>to get the plastic bearings off to remove the shaft and pedal. I see in
>the Moss catalog that they show a two piece assembly with a coupling. I
>am thinking of drilling and pining the pedal side using the existing
>bushing as a coupling and then sawing the shaft in two for removal. I
>don't think I can get the shaft straight enough with it in the car to
>remove the bushing.
> Does anyone have a spare accelerator shaft and pedal piece? Or a
>spare two piece assembly with the bushing used as a coupling as shown in
>Moss? Any other ideas on how to get it out and re-install? Thanks for
>your help.
> By the way, I built a 36' by 48' workshop this Spring and Summer to
>work on the race car and my other cars as well as my sons cars. (Should
>be able to make some decent progress now!) I installed a two post hoist
>made by AutoLifters of Wichita, Kansas. A friend of mine from
>Manitowoc, who has one and installed his, helped me install mine. The
>hardest part was getting it off of the truck! It's great and highly
>recommended. Building the shop with a 12 foot ceiling to allow for the
>hoist was well worth it. The best part is just walking over to the tool
>chest for a tool instead of crawling out from under the car and then
>getting the tool and then crawling back underneath, usually to discover
>you got the wrong tool!
> Thanks again for any help/advice. I have learned a tremendous amount
>from you folks just "listening". Hopefully, some day I will be able to
>"pay back" by contributing.
>
>Tim Murphy
>Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
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