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Re: TR3A cooling

To: "T.R. Scratchings" <wob@dandrade.freeserve.co.uk>, <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: TR3A cooling
From: "elliottd" <elliottd@look.ca>
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 05:19:48 -0500
Jon is right.  When I bought a new water pump in 1988 during the time I was
doing my TR3A restoration, I noticed how the new impeller was made of cast
iron and was smaller.  Since I like to keep things original, I rebuilt to
new pump assy with a stainless steel shaft (never to rust again) and put in
the original brass impeller that came with the car in 1958.

This is the main reason that Ken Gillanders came up with a pump with
improved capabilities.

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A, Montreal, Canada


----- Original Message -----
From: "T.R. Scratchings" <wob@dandrade.freeserve.co.uk>
To: <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 28, 2003 4:47 AM
Subject: Re: TR3A cooling



> > > Absolutely right Dean. The three things you refer to are the most
> > critical.
> > > Use a three row in-line core- four row cores cause too much
turbulence.
> > Lose
> > > that starter hole - gain 15% flow. The bypass blank lowers temperature
> > > dramatically, and can be used with a conventional 'stat as long as the
> > blank
> > > is drilled 5/16".
> > > The gutted 'stat isn't strictly necessary, as the exit from the head
is
> > > around 'stat hole size.
> > > One final thing to check - some while back, a load of water pumps was
> > > released onto the market with the wrong impeller fitted, about 1/4"
too
> > > shallow - so, measure impeller depth vs. depth from front of water
pump
> > > housing. You'll see if there's a problem.
> > > Be cool
> > > Jon Wood                                 Classic Racecraft
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Dean Tetterton" <richtr@erols.com>
> > > To: <fot@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 7:19 PM
> > > Subject: TR3A cooling
> > >
> > >
> > > > I will tell everyone how my TR3 is set up. I have hit 210 degrees on
a
> > > > hot day at VIR but that is unusual.
> > > > I use a stock Tr3 radiator that was recored with a modern core and
no
> > > > crank hole. The water pump bypass
> > > > Is blocked and I use a TR6 thermostat that has no disc. Just a body
to
> > > > slow down the water. You can not fill
> > > > The radiator all the way up. That big neck is the expansion tank. I
> fill
> > > > mine until I see water about < inch deep in the neck.
> > > > It has never pushed any into the catch bottle. If you fill the neck
up
> > > > it will push some out.
> > > > I do use an electric fan with a manual switch. I only run it when
> > > > sitting still. I do use it to cool down the radiator after
> > > > A session.
> > > > On the wide mouth cars also make sure you have a shrould around the
> > > > sides and across the top.
> > > > Remember guys no cheating and raising the back of the hood up or
> screen
> > > > wire in place of the headlights
> > > > Dean Tetterton

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