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> I am preparing an early 1956 TR3 for use as a daily driver and
> would like
> to consult with an experienced person to help me determine the best
> components and settings for achieving optimum street performance. My focus
> initially is on suspension and brakes.
I drove a 59 TR3A almost every day for many years until I was sandwiched in
a 4-car chain collision last year.
An early 56 will have front drum brakes ... IMO inadequate for driving in
present-day traffic unless you plan to stay out of cities and freeways. I
would definitely suggest upgrading to the later front disc brakes. I've
not done it myself, but the conversion to later TR3/A front discs should not
be difficult. Comparing my experiences to what I've heard from others, I'd
go for the TR3/A rotors rather than the smaller (and cheaper) TR4-6 ones.
I think your car would have the single, center brake light ... I would
seriously consider upgrading it. A pair of relays should allow the
tail/turn signals to also serve brake light duty while still keeping the
center light. I'd also suggest brighter bulbs all around.
If you'll be making short trips in bad weather, I would suggest an upgrade
to the charging system. The stock 19 amp generator cannot charge the
battery if the lights, wipers and optional heater are all running. The
charging upgrade will also let you use an electric radiator fan, which IMO
is a must if you will be in stop-and-go traffic in hot weather for very
long.
I've done lots of other things to my car, but the others are not essential,
IMO. Some things to think about tho :
. Overdrive !
. Wider wheels and tires (TR6 wheels fit nicely but won't take TR3 hubcaps
without modification)
. Sway bar(s) (I use both front & rear but many people prefer front only)
(Note that the commonly sold front sway bar from ADDCO will not fit a TR3
unless you fabricate brackets for it. It normally mounts to the TR3A front
bumper brackets, which are different than a TR3.)
. Plastic rather than rubber bushings in the suspension. (Main point here
is that modern rubber "goes away" in just a few years, while polyurethane or
Nylatron lasts much longer.)
. High power headlights, plus relays to handle the increased current.
. Fuses !
. Dual-circuit brakes (so you don't lose them all if one line breaks)
. Negative ground will make it easier to add electronic items like stereos
(although there are converters available to allow use of negative ground
equipment on a positive ground car). Positive ground alternators are
practically non-existent, so that's another reason to convert.
Randall
59 TR3A TS39781LO :(now totaled :(
56 TR3 TS13571L next project
71 Stag LE1473L daily driver wanna be
63 Sports 6 HB7826LCV rustoration project for sale
57 TR3 TS21731L "someday concours restoration project" rusting quietly 2000
miles away
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